Chicago and Ann Arbor.

Ann Sather is a small Chicago chain known, with good cause, for its cinnamon rolls. I went to the 70-year-old Ann Sather restaurant one El stop south of Wrigley Field (it’s right outside the Belmont station off the Red Line) before the Under Armour Game on Sunday for breakfast. The cinnamon rolls – two constitute a single side order – are very good, with a soft dough that’s somewhere between cake and brioche in texture. The cinnamon-sugar-butter filling was heavy on the cinnamon (good), although it tasted a bit like cheap cinnamon (not good, but, in their defense, it’s cheap). Every egg plate comes with your choice of two sides, and two cinnamon rolls constitute one side, so it’s a pretty good deal. I went with two eggs scrambled, which were prepared without the slightest adulteration from salt; the hash browns “well done” (my waitress’ suggestion), which means they have a crisp brown crust that breakfast potatoes should be required by federal law to have; and the “Swedish potato sausage.” I asked my waitress what that sausage contained and was told pork, veal, and potatoes, and that “it’s pink.” I’m thinking, okay, pork sausage usually has a pink hue to it, but what came to the table was dead pink in the center, and in my book, that’s raw. I didn’t eat them. That platter plus tea came to about $11.50 before tip.

In the mini-mall attached to the Renaissance Hotel on West Wacker is a fast food-ish place called Wow Bao which I really had to try. I’ve had authentic Chinese dumpings – both bao zi and xiao long jiao zi – in Taiwan and in the U.S., and I think they’re out of this word, particularly the latter kind. Bao zi are giant puffs of a simple yeast dough usually stuffed with a meat filling and steamed; the texture of the dough is very soft, almost pillowy. Jiao zi are smaller dumplings with a thinner dough and a higher filling-to-dough ratio; the fillings are juicier and part of the experience of eating one is getting the burst of liquid that comes with the first bite. (Think of jiao zi as a Hershey’s Kiss: the dough is the foil wrapper and the filling is the chocolate. That gives you a rough idea of the construction, at least.)

Anyway, Wow Bao serves enormous bao zi for $1.39 apiece or $7.99 for a six-pack; I tried several kinds, the barbecue pork being the best if a bit too sweet, the whole wheat with edamame being the worst with an overpowering taste of scallions, and the chicken and curry also scoring well despite perhaps a lack of authenticity. I highly approve of their homemade ginger ale, which tastes like … ginger. One big negative was a poor ratio of dough to filling, which, since the dough on most of the dumplings comprised only white flour, meant for a bit of a food coma not long after I ate.

Shifting locales, I’ve been remiss in not writing up Zingerman’s Roadhouse in Ann Arbor, Michigan, from my trip to see the Tigers and White Sox last month. The fried eggs were cooked flawlessly (over medium) while the thickly sliced bacon was excellent and also correctly cooked. The grits … well, I’m not a huge grits fan, but these were pretty good, with a fair amount of salt in them. Not as good as even mediocre polenta, of course, but good for grits. The big bonuses for me: real tea; and a small plate of donut holes for us to try, obviously just fried and out of this world, as just-fried donuts usually are. There were five of us there and the waitress was absolutely hellbent on splitting the check for us – she wouldn’t take no for an answer – but I suppose that’s better than the waitress who takes your order and disappears for an hour.

Comments

  1. Just eat the pork. It won’t kill you. These days pork is almost as safe as Beef. Its better rare anyway.

  2. Surprised you liked WowBao, you never struck me as the cheap Asian fast food type.

  3. PhillR,

    I’ve never heard of anyone recommend eating pork below medium-rare. Most people call for medium (150). That’s the temp to which I cook my pork.

    Plus, if you start by brining the pork, it’s still quite juicy at that temp.

  4. I ain’t Jewish man, I just don’t dig on swine.

  5. Keith,

    Thanks for the Chicago reviews, I always look forward to your comments on places close to home. Additionally, I wanted to ask you about thin-crust pizza. In nearly all Chicago pizzarias (except chains) the thin-crust pizza is cut into squares instead of wedges, leaving you with “pieces” of pizza more than “slices”. As a Chicagoan, it has been this way my whole life but my wife, a Clevelander, hates it. She says that she’s never had any other pie-shaped pizza cut into squares.

    Is Chicago really unique in cutting thin-crust pizza this way? Is there a reason?

  6. But bacon tastes good, pork chops taste good…

  7. Chris,

    I agree, I don’t cook pork below medium but my reference (CIA’s Professional Chef) and personal experince call for a final resting temperature of 160.

  8. Next time you are in the Ann Arbor area make sure to check out the original Zingerman’s deli if you haven’t been there. A food lover’s heaven.

  9. Too bad you weren’t having dinner at the Roadhouse. The Maize and Blue hush puppies are awesome, and they’ll bring out a dipping bowl of bacon grease if you ask nice.

    Pot liquor is also to be tried. Not for everyone, but worth a try.

  10. Jeff Wolverine

    KLaw: If you went to Ann Arbor and didn’t eat the cheese fries at Red Hot Lovers you are missing out. They are the best in the world bar none. Real Chedder perfectly melted and poured on top of perfectly cooked criss cut fried. Try a 1/2 Onion Rings, 1/2 Fries with cheese for fun. Serious Dog (Steamed red hotwith BBQ sauce, swiss cheese, onions, cole slaw on a steamed poppy bun) and the classic Chicago Dog along with the chicken teriaki and soul on a roll are can’t miss also.

  11. Jeff – I despise cheddar cheese; I find it nauseous. And I haven’t eaten a hot dog since 2002.

    Rob, those hush puppies sound delicious.

  12. Matt,

    I have read 160 and 150 in different cookbooks, food magazines, etc. The most common cut of pork I cook is tenderloin, which I take off the heat at 150. Since it’s a relatively slim cut, I don’t think it picks up much in terms of carry over heat, so it probably never gets past 155 (I’ll have to check next time).

    That being said, the trichinae parasite that makes everyone paranoid about undercooked pork is killed at 138 degrees. So, 150 (even 140) is sufficient enough to kill it off and remove that risk. I’m not sure of other know pork-related bacteria, but I’m sure the usual suspects (salmonella and e.coli) are probably the reason they call for cooking it to 160.

    Although e.coli is more of a packaging/processing-borne parasite that wouldn’t be in the center of a cut of meat (and if the interior was at 150, the exterior would be far enough above 160 to kill any bugs).

  13. Chris,

    Thanks for that on the trichinae parasite, while I have never seen 150 for pork, I don’t doubt people will say that. 150 wouldn’t scare me at all; like you said.

    In terms of tenderloin, I actually checked the carry-over last time and picked up 4 degrees from 154 if that puts it in perspective.

  14. Tim – Columbus, OH does that to pizza. As a lifelong east coast resident recently moved there, it turned me off at first but I’m used to it now. The real problem is that the pizza isn’t as good as it is back home.

  15. If we’re talking about great pizza, I would be remiss to not mention my favorite pizza growing up in NY. It’s not typical NY pizza, as you cannot buy it by the slice, only by the personal pie, but it is amazing nonetheless. Famous Singa’s — their original location is in Flushing, on Main Street, and they have a couple of other locations as well. The ones I know about are in Hicksville on Broadway, and in Manhattan at 2nd Ave and 12th St. It’s a very unique pie, and it’s simply unbelievable. Anyone heard of it? Bonus: the Manhattan location also sells pitchers of beer for $5… I don’t know anywhere else in Manhattan you can get beer that cheap.

  16. Tim, St. Louis-style thin crust is sliced into squares as well.

  17. Jeff Ann Arbor

    Anything in Columbus is sub-par. Keith, sorry to hear about your hatred of the delicious Red Hot Lovers. I agree with you 98% of the time but this time I think you are missing out.

    Famous Singa’s is right around the corner from my apartment in NY and it is ok.

    As far as Zingerman’s Roadhouse goes, it is not bad but the Okra could use some work. Original Zingerman’s is not bad but over priced.

    Go Blue!

  18. Dayton is also home to the square cut pizzas. The local Ohio chains like their thin crust like that. Donato’s, Cassano’s, and Marion’s are the most prevalent round here.

    I personally love them, but my wife is a Long Islander and can’t stand them so I don’t get to enjoy them often. She claims New York as the one true pizza.

  19. Keith,
    Off topic, but what do you think of Kevin Youkilis? If you had a distribution of his potential offensive performance for 2008, how far along the right tail is he compared to your estimate? Has he shown you anything that has made you reevaluate his projections for 2009 and beyond?

    Thanks

  20. I wouldn’t eat Kevin Youkilis if he was pink in the center or cut into squares. Aside from that, he’s pretty good for a chain.

  21. Bob,
    How about if you throw some A1 on that piece of tender Youk?

  22. OK, now you got me.

  23. KLaw, have you tried the grits at the original Flying Biscuit in Atlanta? I’m not generally a grits fan, but FB’s are amazing, likely due to cream and butter and maybe not as traditional. Addictive though.