puerto rico

→ November 24, 2021
→ By keith

Puerto Rico eats.

I had a lot of mediocre food in Puerto Rico this time around, which was disappointing, as I would have generally said I like that cuisine, but did manage to sneak in a couple of good meals before we headed home on Sunday night. Most of the good eats are in San Juan proper, in the Viejo San Juan, Santurce, and Miramar neighborhoods in particular, while we stayed at a hotel near the airport for the conference my wife was attending, so that limited our options a bit.

Jungle Bird was by far the best place I ate on the trip, which is funny because it’s more of a kitschy tiki bar than restaurant. Their “crack eggplant” lives up to the name, though – the eggplant is dried and I assume quickly pan-fried, then doused in a mildly spicy sambal sauce with slivered almonds. It is addictive, and messy, and I think it’s the best eggplant dish I’ve ever had. Usually the texture of aubergines throws me off, and the seeds can be rather bitter if it’s not cooked correctly, but this dish had none of those issues; whatever they’re doing to the berry, it gives it a toothy, chewy texture closer to that of grilled meats. The coconut and corn fritters with queso fresco (pictured here) were sweet, balanced by the spicy and slightly tangy sauce and the salt from the cheese. The kimchi fried rice was a giant plate of exactly what it sounds like, with the kimchi well-integrated into the dish, so that it was present but not overpowering, boosted by a generous helping of peanuts and some fried chicken thighs (an add-on). That was actually the spiciest of the three dishes we tried. Everything was fantastic, although I actually thought the cocktails were on the weaker side for tiki drinks, which tend to hide a lot of rum – especially the Zombie, which contains some 151-proof rum – behind fruit juices.

I didn’t expect to find Neapolitan-style pizza in San Juan, but I stumbled on Verace while walking around the Isla Verde area outside our hotel. It’s located in a boutique hotel just off the main drag, but caught my eye for the actual wood-fired pizza oven on its patio. I ordered the prosciutto and arugula pizza, which had some other name, and got exactly what I expected: fresh mozzarella, prosciutto di Parma, and a modest serving of arugula on top, with crushed tomatoes rather than sauce (and certainly not sweetened like so many sauces). Everything on top of the pizza was superb. The one knock I have on Verace is that they didn’t cook their pizzas at anywhere near 800 degrees – the patio oven wasn’t even lit, so I’m not sure how they were cooking the pizzas that day – so there was no charring on the outside or underneath, and the outer crust didn’t have any crispness. The flavors were great, including that of the dough itself, and they were using good-quality ingredients for the toppings. I am just a little skeptical about the veracity of their claims to be Neapolitan-style.

Breakfast options were scant, but if you’re on Isla Verde, at the eastern end of that main road with all the hotels is a bakery called Las Canarias that does a credible job with fresh breakfast sandwiches, made to order, along with pancakes and waffles – the closest I saw to an “American” breakfast outside of hotel restaurants. (I’m aware Puerto Rico is American, too.) I had an egg and bacon sandwich on a crusty baguette, less airy than French bread but crunchy and sturdy enough for the fillings, which were a little saltier than I’d like – but I’ll take that over undersalted eggs. It was more than I could finish, too.

A friend introduced me to Gustos Coffee on my last trip to Puerto Rico, and I was dying to get back there both to drink their coffee and buy some local beans to bring home; Puerto Rico has a small coffee-growing industry, but the beans generally don’t leave the island. Gustos has a large, gorgeous new café in the Miramar neighborhood of San Juan, offering a full array of coffee drinks and beans of varying roasts as well as some breakfast and lunch items. They do offer pour-overs, which the day I was there was made with a blend that included Puerto Rican and Central American beans. I might just take drip coffee if I went again, as they use the same beans in that, and in the espresso drinks as well. They had several options for locally grown beans for sale, roasted either medium or dark (they don’t do light roasts – my recollection is that they felt it wouldn’t sell), picking the ones grown at the highest altitudes. I’ll update this post when I try them.

If you can’t make it to any of their locations – they also have one at the airport that is open quite late – there’s a tiny coffee stand inside the Verdanza hotel, right by Verace, called Espresso Lab that is more than adequate. They know how to pull a shot correctly, and that’s all they do – they don’t offer drip coffee, just an Americano if that’s your speed – although their milk game isn’t as strong.

The airport also has one of Metropol’s eight locations on the island (there’s a ninth in Miami), and you’re not going to do much better with airport food. It’s mostly Puerto Rican food with some Cuban dishes included, and their specialty, a stuffed Cornish game hen with maduros (fried sweet plantains), was actually great, even for something that was obviously not made to order, given how fast we were served. The menu has a lot of options, although it is heavily weighted towards meat eaters. They offer the Cuban rice dish arroz congri (black beans and rice, cooked together) and the Puerto Rican arroz mamposteao (rice with stewed red beans) as side options, or as individual small plates, and I’d be happy with a big bowl of either of those.

We had a full afternoon before the flight back to Philly, so we took a day trip to Charco Frio, a series of small waterfalls in the same rainforest as the famed El Yunque (which required more time than we had). It’s a lengthy hike, 15-20 minutes, along a muddy trail, so I recommend bringing water shoes if you go there. On the way back, we visited Luquillo, a gorgeous beach on a small peninsula the north shore that faces west, so the water is calmer than it is at the hotel beaches in Isla Verde and San Juan. Towards the southern end of the beach is a long series of food stalls offering all manner of food – mostly Puerto Rican foods like alcapurrias (corn meal stuffed with meats or fish or cheese), bacalaitos (breaded and fried dried salt cod), and surullitos (fried corn and cheese sticks), all of which we tried. It’s all greasy and mostly good and I think best served with a cold beer. And a lot of napkins.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: coffee, pizza, puerto rican cuisine, puerto rico

→ June 2, 2018
→ By keith

Stick to baseball, 6/2/18.

My third first-round projection for Monday night’s MLB Draft went up on Thursday for Insiders; I’ll do one more on Monday morning. I also held a Klawchat on Thursday, and will do another on Monday afternoon. I wrote a piece earlier in the week for Insiders on why players withdrawing from the draft is a terrible idea for them, benefiting no one but the college coaches encouraging them to do so.

Longtime Marlins scout Orrin Freeman and his wife Penny are both facing awful health problems and mounting medical bills, so Penny’s daughter has set up a GoFundMe to help offset some of these costs. You can expect MLB to try to help one of its own as well. Of course, universal health care would make a difference in cases like this – and it could happen to any of us in time.

My book Smart Baseball is now out in paperback! I’ll be at Washington DC’s famed bookstore Politics & Prose on July 14th, along with fellow author Jay Jaffe, to talk baseball, sabermetrics, and whatever else you kind readers ask about. I should be able to announce another event in the Boston suburbs for July 28th very soon.

And now, the links…

Longreads first: The Huffington Post’s Luke O’Brien finds the woman behind one of Twitter’s most vile Islamophobic accounts. The biggest question I have is why Twitter hasn’t kicked her off the service. Meanwhile, she’s directing her followers to attack O’brien, and various alt-right trolls are claiming her First Amendment rights were violated.
The Guardian‘s longread of the week looks at how American freedom of speech is threatened by white supremacists whose hate speech challenges even those who’ve sworn to defend that 1A right, including the ACLU. It’s easy to say neo-Nazis preaching hate are in fact inciting violence against marginalized groups, and that they’re beyond the boundaries of the First Amendment (since some forms of speech, like death threats, have long been criminalized), but moving the boundaries always creates new and unexpected quandaries.
New York has the hard-to-believe story of a 25-year-old con woman who fooled New York elites largely through social engineering and strategic cash drops in front of the right people.
I assume most of you have seen the Ringer’s exposé on 76ers GM Bryan Colangelo’s many secret Twitter accounts.
The BBC tells the story of six young stowaways put overboard on the ice in eastern Canada in 1868 by a sadistic British captain and his first mate. Four survived to tell their story, which was largely lost until now.
Also from the BBC, Maddy Savage looks back at when Sweden shifted drivers to the right-hand side of the road, a change that was literally enacted overnight after months of planning and public education.
Evan Grant wrote a fantastic piece for the Dallas Morning News on recent tragedies and challenges for the Rangers scouting staff. One area scout died in early April of a stroke; another lost his wife to cancer in February, and a third has just returned to the job after missing two years to care for his wife, who also had a stroke.
Rachel Herron writes for Vox about the frequent, overly racist calls she’d get as a 911 dispatcher.
Major media outlets gave disproportionate coverage to the Roseanne Barr controversy relative to the release of one estimate (since disputed) that the twin hurricanes that hit Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands caused at least 4600 deaths in that one U.S. territory.
Eve Peyser writes for VICE that the ‘Twitter mob’ got it right on Roseanne, but that is an outlier on a site that is often “a toxic cesspool” and a “viral outrage” generator. She also points out, correctly, that, “as a journalist it’s a useful career tool.” I have my problems with the site too, including its apparent non-policing of harassment, hate, and fraud, but it’s also been a career boon, and I’ve made many new friends and professional contacts through the site as well.
Buried behind the Roseanne Barr and Puerto Rico stories this week: Newly released emails show EPA leaders worked with a climate change denial group to combat information on the reality of climate change and to “tout” Scott Pruitt’s leadership of the agency.
The Administration may try to order power grid operators to buy power from specific, failing coal and nuclear plants, including many operated by a major Trump donor. This sort of economic dirigisme is a hallmark of fascist economies, not the free market principles long espoused by the Republican Party.
As measles outbreaks spread throughout the country, including a recent one in Maryland and Virginia, New York is considering expanding the religious “exemption” from mandatory vaccination rules. Many of you live in New York state, so if you do, please call your state representatives Monday to oppose any such expansion. Multiple courts have ruled over the past 110 years that public health considerations override such so-called religious freedom concerns (which may not even be real, as with the Catholic mother quoted in the piece).
A Harvard Law School professor argues that the NFL’s ban on players taking a knee is ‘flatly illegal’ under U.S. labor law.
The Supreme Court declined to hear a challenge to Arkansas’s anti-abortion law, handing a victory to opponents of women’s rights. The case is expected to return to a lower court for a trial.
My friend Jeb Lund writes for NBC News that Trump should be afraid of the Mueller investigation because he’s an outsider whom the Republican Party has largely run out of uses.
I’ve included many links about the rising threat of antibiotic resistance, largely from overuse or rapid evolution in bacteria. But this Guardian story has a new twist – supply of the drugs is running low too.
The Gainesville Sun looks back at the 1923 Rosewood massacre, where a dubious rape accusation against a black man led a white mob to torch an entire black neighborhood, killing as many as 27. No one was ever even charged with a crime, even though at least one black man was tortured and lynched.
Astronomers have identified dunes of methane on the surface of Pluto.
The BBC has been working quietly to speak to North Korean citizens about their government and Dear Leader, with two commenting that sentiment is improving towards him because of market reforms even as they individually criticized him. Their Inquiry podcast also looked at North Korea in a May 24th episode that examined whether North Korea is broke. The short answer is ‘no,’ but there’s quite a bit of detail on how and why the repressive regime has managed to stave off a second economic catastrophe in three decades.
With news that Illinois became the 37th state to pass the Equal Rights Amendment, leaving it just one state short of the required ¾ (after which we’ll have a debate over whether these votes are too late, I’m sure), Delaware’s Senate rejected a proposed Equal Rights Amendment to the state constitution. My state Senator, a co-sponsor of the amendment, was absent from the vote.
Monique Judge writes for The Root that Obama doesn’t owe this country anything as a former President, responding to a post on Splinter that criticized him for inaction in the face of a wave of racism and regressive policies.
The Splendid Table podcast looks at the burgeoning Philadelphia food scene, including two of the city’s preeminent chefs in Michael Solomonov (Zahav, Federal Donuts) and Eli Kulp (High St. on Market, my favorite restaurant in the city).
Board game news: Game Salute shared the draft Kickstarter for A War of Whispers, an area control game where players represent secret societies rather than armies.
Lil Cerebral Games also shared a draft Kickstarter, this one to bring back GAMES magazine Hall of Fame title TwixT, which has been out of print for some time.
Skyrim finally has that mod you’ve all been waiting for: You can now ride giant chickens and ducks. (Note: this piece’s author, Chris Livingston, and I went to high school together.)

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: astronomy, baseball, board games, climate change, con men, environment, first amendment, florida, links, philadelphia, puerto rico, science, social media, stick to baseball, the swamp, twitter, vaccines, women's rights

→ June 17, 2017
→ By keith

Stick to baseball, 6/17/17.

I recapped the drafts for all 15 NL teams and all 15 AL teams on Friday and Thursday, respectively, and previously had reactions to day one and day two of the draft, as well as a Klawchat during day two.

I did manage to squeeze in a boardgame review for Paste, breaking down the family-level tile-laying game Bärenpark, which has a Tetris/Patchwork-like mechanic and plays well with four but needs a few rules tweaks to keep it fair.

Smart Baseball continues to sell well, according to my editors, so thank you all for buying, reading, and talking it up. I have signings coming up in Toronto (6/26), Miami (7/8), Harrisburg (7/15), Berkeley (7/19), Chicago (7/28, details to come), and at GenCon 50 in Indianapolis (August 17-20).

I was a bit busy this week, and was offline most of the day Thursday as we went strawberry picking, which means we now have jam and strawberry-rhubarb pie, so the list of links is pretty short. I should be back to normal next week.

Longread of the week: Ars Technica looks at the guy who says he invented email and is suing everyone who says he didn’t. No serious outlet agrees with his claim, but he has access to enough cash to fund these suits, one of which is threatening to shut down the site Techdirt because of the ruinous cost of defending itself against the suit. The soi-disant inventor is also a Trump supporter and announced that he’s running for the Massachusetts Senate seat occupied by Elizabeth Warren.
Two pieces this week found that baseball’s home run spike is at least partly the result of changes to the baseball. The first came from Ben Lindbergh and Mitchel Lichtman at The Ringer, and the second from Rob Arthur at FiveThirtyEight.
Want to get more done in a day? Manage your energy, not your time. That means embracing moments of “unfocus,” and ending the futile effort to be productive every minute of your workday. I wouldn’t say this is how I planned to work, but it is definitely how I do work.
Farhad Manjoo makes a rational argument against using Uber, at least until the company cleans up its act. I’ve switched to Lyft and taxis when I need a ride somewhere.
My adopted home state of Delaware took a major step to ensure a woman’s right to choose in the face of threats to abortion rights at the federal level, to say nothing of efforts in states with right-wing governments like Texas and Missouri to enact end-runs around Roe v. Wade.
Meanwhile, in Ohio, women protested that state’s bill to restrict abortion rights by appearing in costumes from The Handmaid’s Tale. I haven’t seen the series, but the book is a must-read.
Have you seen the list of doctors who claim to be vaccine skeptics? If you argue with anti-vaxers at all, this list inevitably comes up. SkepticalRaptor goes through the list and finds they’re not immunologists, and often aren’t doctors at all. What a shock. I’m in favor of any medical board pulling the license of a doctor who advises parents not to vaccinate their kids.
This GQ profile of LA chef Jordan Kahn and his new restaurant Vespertine seems extremely unflattering to me – not because the writer aimed to take down the subject, but because the entire undertaking seems so out of place. The friend who sent me this link called it “pretentious” and I’d go even farther; the article makes Vespertine sound like a chef’s ego trip around the world.
Puerto Rico voted for statehood, sort of, with an opposition boycott resulting in just 23% of voters casting ballots in the nonbinding referendum. The BBC looks at what statehood would mean for the commonwealth.
A lobbyist who represents “Russian interests” in Washington told the Guardian that he can contradict Jeff Sessions’ claims before Congress that the Attorney General never had contacts with any such people during the 2016 campaign.
Maryland and D.C. have sued the President, alleging a breach of the Constitution’s emoluments clause.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: baseball, links, puerto rico, right to choose, stick to baseball, vaccines

Puerto Rico eats.

Stick to baseball, 6/2/18.

Stick to baseball, 6/17/17.

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