Top Chef, S13E10.

So, the first part of the top 100 prospects package is up: the top 100 ranking itself, ten prospects who just missed, and the ranking of all 30 farm systems. My team by team top tens and reports will go up Tuesday and Wednesday.

And now, Restaurant Wars, part two…

* Isaac’s team was very happy with lunch, and it seems like a smooth transition to set up for dinner service because they were done on time and organized. Then Isaac realizes, “holy shit, team orange is still serving.” Yes, yes they are.

* Phillip says, “we definitely failed lunch service.” Spot on. The weird thing is that the judges seem to have taken little notice of this. Tom and Bill even show up to admonish the chefs … for “playing it too safe” with their food, not for, you know, taking a geological era to get food to the tables.

* Carl is doing a snapper crudo for his entree with cucumber, ginger, and grapes. I do not get grapes with raw fish. I’ve had it. It doesn’t work for me. The grapes are way too sweet. I love grapes. I don’t like them with meat.

* Kwame’s amuse-bouse is a beet-cured hamachi. When he removes the tuna loin, it looks like some sort of horrible monster eel, or perhaps a tapeworm removed from an elephant’s intestine.

* Amar is making a slow braised pork belly. In other words, he’s not making another sous vide chicken breast!

* Phillip claims, “when you add acid to olive oil, it turns acrid.” That’s funny. I thought that when you added acid to olive oil, it turned into a vinaigrette.

* Karen is making 2.5 dishes plus running front of house, so we see servers standing around with nothing to do because she doesn’t have time to talk to them about how to do their jobs.

* Phillip comes up with the idea to offer guests a complimentary cocktail with pineapple, ginger, turmeric, lemon juice, and two kinds of sake. He calls it “Bangkok Dangerous,” which sounds like the villain in a bad 1940s movie. Also, that drink sounds disgusting.

* Jeremy says, “Risotto is risky because there’s been so many horrible ones on Top Chef.” There have been so many horrible ones because making risotto for a large number of people is fucking hard, genius.

* A stand mixer walked off the counter and hit the floor. I have contemplated solutions like duct taping it to my counter to try to prevent this.

* It seemed like both teams were still finishing prep when dinner service started. Maybe the producers truly didn’t give them enough time between lunch and dinner?

* Marjorie made parmiggiano-garlic-parsley bread. Tom is so impressed that she bakes. So am I. Usually, in the kitchen, the only life form on which you’re relying is yourself. With bread, you’re relying on a billion or so yeast to do their jobs how you want and when you want.

* Okay, we’re off to the food: Karen and Carl made an oxtail consommé with tripe, tortellini, and mushrooms. Carl’s own entree was the snapper crudo with cucumber, ginger, and grapes. Padma likes that Karen cut the tripe so small. Tom approves of the tripe and the oxtail, which is kind of a big deal because Tom knows cow. The snapper really good, but Tom is suffering from crudo fatigue. The struggle is real, Tom.

* Karen is getting praised for her front of house work (which she did well) and for training the waitstaff (which Marjorie helped do).

* Karen’s dish is a stuffed trout with coconut rice and heirloom tomatoes. Isaac made a braised lamb shoulder with couscous, pickled fennel, and orange. Isaac “loves to braise.” Well who the hell doesn’t? Braised dishes are comfort food. And the judges love, love, love his lamb. Karen’s trout dish was just “misconceived” and badly done. I’ve never had trout stuffed; I can’t fathom how rainbow trout, which is what I usually get at Whole Foods, could stand up to stuffing with anything more than an aromatic or two.

* Marjorie made a composed cheese plate with dates, pecans, and plums; and a dessert of a California berry soup, buttermilk panna cotta, vanilla, and macadamia nuts. Tom offers the insight, “I like dates. Love them.” But the judges don’t like the fizz from the champagne in the dessert soup. Maybe they would have liked it better had she explained what it was?

* The judges move over to Bro Bistro. Padma immediately eyerolls at the cocktail.

* The amuse bouche from Kwame is the beet cured hamachi with avocado mousse, osetra caviar, and a cucumber lime emulsion. “It’s horrible. Technique over substance.” Padma says the emulsion was “sort of like spittle.” Also, isn’t osetra caviar wildly expensive? Why did they waste money on that for an amuse?

* Amar’s first dish is an avocado gazpacho with lemon pudding, shaved radish, king crab, and fried tortilla. Phillip’s super-weird salad has strawberries, pickled cucumber, roasted beets, pickled cucumbers, arugula, and a strawberry champagne gazpacho. Of the latter, Tom says “Take the onions off and it’s a dessert.” Gail says it didn’t make any sense and “it felt stupid.” They’re slamming it like I haven’t seen them slam a dish in a while. Amar’s dish reminds Tom of nachos. Gail says it was odd but she liked it.

* So the judges spot Phillip talking too much to customers. Tom says “I will bet you anything he’s talking about his restaurants,” and we cut to Phillip talking to the customers about his restaurants. I’m pretty sure Phillip is a narcissist. He talks about himself, his own restaurants, his own everything all the time. He seems unable to accept responsibility either for mistakes or even for negative assessments of his work. When he is criticized, he tends to belittle the other chefs. He certainly treated Kwame like an extension of himself, and says he’d treat his own employees like that, not like separate individuals. Granted, I can’t diagnose anyone through a TV, not least because I’m not a doctor, but on this show, in what we’ve seen, he has certainly behaved like a classic narcissist.

* The judges appear to be getting hammered on wine. I have no real problem with this.

* Kwame made a roasted Amish chicken thigh with a sauce of San Marzano tomatoes and marcona almonds, and some sort of cauliflower side. Jeremy made an artichoke risotto with crispy shallot and olive oil. The risotto looks gluey, mounded up in the bowl, with no spreading. It’s also flavorless and Gail guesses (correctly, as we learn later) that he cooked the rice in water rather than stock or broth. Kwame’s chicken was slightly overcooked. Tom calls it a “one-note dish,” which is usually a fatal error around these parts.

* Amar made a slow braised pork belly with a “BBQ sauce consommé,” whatever the hell that is supposed to mean. Jeremy’s second dish is a dry aged rib eye with celery root miso puree and miso butter. Amar’s consommé is “more concentrated than pickle juice,” although Tom says it’s better when eaten with the meat, which is probably how Amar intended it – but then don’t call it consommé, which is a soup. Jeremy’s dish is “serviceable” but Tom is getting drunk-grumpy and starts picking apart the unnecessary elements.

* Amar thinks they might be the winners because the gray team looks down. That is some strong power of self-delusion right there.

* Judges’ table: Tom acknowledges that it’s really hard to do what they were asked to do.

* Padma says it was close after lunch, but after dinner there was a clear winner – the gray team. Karen drops a “holy shit!” and they all seem legitimately surprised.

* There’s a lot of praise for Marjorie’s work in the front of house and for her food. Karen also earns plaudits for her front of house service, but the judges said she gave them one good dish, one not. Isaac gave them two great dishes. Carl praises Isaac’s expediting system for lunch and says they carried over the good ideas to dinner. Isaac claims the four of them had “no attitudes, no ego.” Tom says “we all have both, we wouldn’t be chefs if we didn’t have both.” But I think we could see what Isaac meant – the four of them seemed to avoid drama and communicate very well, including taking direction from the exec chef during each service.

* The winner is Isaac. It’s Isaac’s first win and it came after he was picked last for the challenge. He gives us a rebel yell to make Billy Idol proud. On second thought, I don’t think that’s what that song was about.

* And now, Bro Bistro comes to the guillotine. Jeremy can’t quite explain what happened at lunch. Bill says the cocktail gambit was “amateurish.” Phillip tries to joke that “at least (he’s) not being judged on that,” but the judges all kind of laugh and say that of course he is.

* Kwame’s amuse was terrible. The pistachio oil in the avocado mousse overwhelmed it. Amar’s gazpacho was heavy. Phillip’s strawberry course didn’t come off as a salad, and the sauce/dressing was like dessert. Kwame and Phillip start disagreeing again in front of judges. Tom thinks regardless of whether Amar or Kwame tried to intervene, the dish was unfixable. (Phillip wouldn’t have listened anyway.) Jeremy admits he used water tocook the rice. Tom says it was one of the worst risottos ever on Top Chef. They go after Amar as exec for dinner, for not trying to fix Phillip’s dish and for not tasting the risotto.

* Hey, Recipe for Deception has one of the horrible human beings from Million Dollar Listing as a judge! Can I not watch this show any harder?

* Phillip is eliminated. It was high time. He really had just one dish all season the judges loved. Of course, he’s “very surprised,” because of course he is.

* LCK: Phillip gets to pick the core ingredient and the time for the challenge; he picks sweetbreads and 20 minutes. The idea is that he can only blame himself if he loses. Jason says he’s never cooked sweetbreads in less than an hour and a half, so while he loves cooking them 20 minutes is awfully short.

* Phillip slices off a bit of his left index finger and is bleeding a lot, even inside the glove after it’s bandaged. He keeps cooking … but is this the built-in excuse if Jason wins?

* Phillip did roasted sweetbread with torched salmon belly, sweet potato chips, shaved apple and radish, and yogurt-ginger-carrot sauce. Tom says it’s kind of all soft textures, including the underblended purée; Phillip tries to claim that that was intentional but Tom shuts him down and says “don’t bullshit the bullshitter.” I like LCK Tom, if I haven’t mentioned that before. Jason made a fricasée of poached and pan-roasted sweetbreads with artichoke and saffron; it seems like Tom liked it, only saying that the saffron was a little aggressive. And Jason does indeed win.

* Power rankings: Marjorie, Kwame, Carl, Karen, Amar, Isaac, Jeremy. Jeremy takes the big tumble because he really seems to struggle when he’s not serving raw fish, but I’ll hear arguments that Isaac belongs on the bottom even after the win.

Comments

  1. Keith, you’re spot on with Phillip. What makes me the most sad is that his restaurants are the ones that are near me and I have zero interest in eating there. There was nothing that the orange team made at dinner that made me wish I was eating it.

  2. This is three uneven weeks for Kwame. Ever since the make a dish from ten years ago he can’t seem to catch the clear momentum he had earlier in the season.

    • I agree. I would consider moving him down in the power rankings, though I’m not sure if either Carl or Karen should move up ahead of him.

      I’d also like to know why the one member of the waitstaff decided to fill Tom’s already close to full glass of wine even more? Was it an instruction from Philip?

  3. I don’t care if Isaac wins but goddamn I hope he makes it to the finale. Dude is legit entertaining.

    • Isaac to me is like a large white male Carla (season 5). If he could make a similar surprise run towards the end, that’d be some good TV

    • I haven’t been able to pinpoint exactly why, but I’m an Isaac fan too. OK, maybe I can…He’s fun and down-to-earth. I’d say that about Carla too.

  4. I’m starting to think that Carl could be the winner here. He really hasn’t made any huge mistakes and hasn’t been at the center of any issues. He reminds me in temperament of S1 winner Harold — rock steady, there for the cooking, willing to help out.

    And Keith mentioned it, but it was a kick watching Gail get looped at dinner

  5. It seems really hypocritical of them to suddenly start whining about crudo’s when raw preparations have consistently been one of if not the most reliable way to win a challenge over basically the entire history of top chef (including for large chunks of this season!). Of course the chefs are going to go back to that well when you keep rewarding it!

  6. While I don’t deny that Philip was overdue to go, there seemed to be some strange hand waving over the fact that Jeremy’s expediting put team bro in the weeds for dinner service. Yes the food was no good but this could have been a key reason why – less time means the chefs were rushing and thus making small errors that led to bigger mistakes.

    it seemed like (and this could be editing) they were looking for an excuse to not eliminate Jeremy, and concentrating solely on the food was that excuse.

  7. Bangkok Dangerous is the title of a Nic Cage movie from a while back, fwiw.

  8. I’m going to miss Phillip. I get this isn’t what the show is about but it was like watching slow motion train wreck.

    • Editing choices are always interesting…who knows what we miss. Over this many seasons and episodes of Top Chef, I don’t recall any other chef touting his/her personal restaurant during restaurant wars. Given the opportunity with a hometown crowd, I’m surprised more chefs haven’t done so.

    • I’ve watched the Phillip send-off a few times now, and I would swear that it looks like Karen is flipping him off. I’m sure it’s just an odd wave but the bird is more fun.

  9. I was very surprised that Jeremy’s decision to cater to the judge’s table and slow down the rest of the service wasn’t brought up at the end judge’s table.

    The others could have easily used it to say that they didn’t have time to correctly prepare for dinner service – really srprised Phillip couldn’t manage to fit that in somewhere.

    With Kwame starting to fall I really think Marjorie is the favorite now. I do think Amar is a wild-card because he never seems to cook a bad dish and may just linger on for a while where he is there far later than people would expect.

  10. In LCK even after Phillip lost he commented that he’d rather lose cooking his food than win pleasing Tom. It’s a wonder how he can cook dishes that can attract diners on a regular basis. It’s all about him

    The DC NBC affiliate did features on Marjorie and Kwame. She seemed very sincere. I havent seen his yet

    The Washington post reviewed one of her restaurants this week. Who doesn’t love sausage unless of course you’re a vegetarian. I’ll be going there soon to try

    https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/roofers-union-review-everyman-appeal-from-a-star-in-the-making/2016/02/10/0c739eb6-bf93-11e5-9443-7074c3645405_story.html

  11. May be remembering it wrong but thought it was Padma who caught the risotto cooked with water and did a HUGE eyeroll at Judge’s Table when it came up proving she spotted it at the time.

    I really enjoy Restaurant Wars but why do they waste time naming it, getting the decor, tables etc. when none of that ever seems to matter? Been watching Top Chef for 4-5 years now and its not like they’ve ever done Japanese style seating or anything crazy. At this point put them in a hotel ballroom and let them cook. Ep 1. we had the Kwame/ Phillip mason jar thing. Yet no one cares. I’d like to see how you make that bread Marjorie is always whipping up instead of figuring how many napkin holders they can get. No mention ever of number of seats versus turnover/ money making avenues of a real restaurant which the failure rate is incredibly high. Nitpicking but if we aren’t going to see cooking time, why not see actual chef’s business time?

  12. One thing that bugged me about this Restaurant Wars in particular was after changing the rules to put multiple people in the high-pressure slots, they didn’t have a set of eyes in the kitchens to actually see how the head chef did during each meal. Seems to me that having someone back there (a perfect spot for Blais or Hugh Acheson), would give the judges additional details about why a restaurant failed or succeeded.

    They’ve done this a couple of times with Tom — once having him just observe, another time having him expedite — and to me it gives the judges a more well-round account of what happened.

    What they always fall back on is “at the end of the day, it’s just about the food” — but, if that’s the case, why have RW at all? Or why have the chefs be front of the house or run the kitchen?

    • +1 to having Hugh in the kitchen. I’m assuming his availability is limited or they would have him on more, but especially for a two-part Restaurant Wars, they should have done something with it.

      Also, I was surprised that the waiter chopping strawberries for Phillip didn’t come up, this could have been something this person would have noticed.

    • Robert – Very good points!

  13. “I like LCK Tom”

    +1

    Seeing him eat the Fred Flintstone-sized steaks with his hands with such glee was lots of fun.

  14. In restaurant wars, I’m always confronted by the random-chance quality of the servers each team gets. It’s not like they hired these people, and yet their simple competence can make/break these places. For example:
    -Gray team has no one training them, camera cuts to them starting to set tables on their own
    -Guy who over-pours the wine glasses – who would think to tell an experienced waiter not to fill a wine glass?

    Also, one small crack in the armor for Marjorie might be that right before her champagne dessert soup goes out, she mentions how she likes it better with the champagne, which the judges then immediately hate. Might be a palate issue cropping up that will be expanded on later in the season? (Or I’m just reaching)

  15. I think the judges erred greatly in booting Phillip, not Jeremy. By all means, Phillip has needed to go for some time – more than Jeremy – but I don’t think Phillip messed up as bad as Jeremy in Restaurant Wars. Not even close. It sounds like they got completely hung up on the strawberry salad. And sure, his front of the house had warts, but other than that he seemed to run a very efficient front house.

    Meanwhile, Jeremy not only completely bombed the risotto after acknowledging he was aware of the history on Top Chef, but he was utterly brutal as exec chef at lunch. It boggles me how little the judges paid attention to Jeremy’s performance as chef, but focused on Phillip’s performance as front of the house. I don’t think it was particularly close that Jeremy should have gone home.

    I think it being long overdue for Phillip and Jeremy being the better cook regardless came into play here. Stick to just what happened in Restaurant Wars, and it’s obvious it should have been Jeremy in my opinion.

  16. Couple scattered thoughts…

    1. Is narcissism a clinical term? IF so, is it physiological? Genetic? Do we know what causes it or how/if it can be treated? Or is it more of a personality issue?
    2. While eating Marjorie’s bread, Tom said something about how they’re not allowed to have recipes. Maybe it was just me, but I didn’t realize that. That is a really interesting wrinkle that makes even more impressive the chefs who bake and/or do dishes that are really precise and can’t be “corrected”.
    3. I know it is a reality show and thus not bound by real rules of competition, but it’d really be helpful if TC clarified whether eliminations were based on that particular challenge or body-of-work.
    4. At the risk of being “that guy”, I find the comments about Padma and other women’s physical appearance off putting. I don’t know that I’ve ever seen you comment on a man in the same way — even something as mockable as Philip’s “man bun” — and seems to contribute to the idea that women’s physicality matters in a way that it doesn’t for me. Who cares if Padma was displaying cleavage?

    • I absolutely comment on the appearances of male contestants. I mocked Jason’s sartorial style. I noted Gregory’s resemblance to Mo’s Def and S7’s Kevin Gillespie to Yukon Cornelius. And so on.

      Narcissistic personality disorder is in the DSM. It’s very difficult to treat. Narcissism in general is just a personality trait that may not be part of a clinical disorder.

    • I stand corrected.

      A friend of mine who works in brain research (I don’t know more specificity than that) says that one of the biggest issues facing mental health is the degree to which we turn legitimate diagnoses/disorders into colloquialisms. When people use essentially the same word to describe a very real physiological condition that likely requires chemical treatment AND a temporary mood (depression/depressed), it makes it much harder for people to take the former as seriously as they ought to. I don’t know how we address that, but it would seem that Phillip might very well have NPD.

  17. When I first saw Phillip was on the season I immediately named him the favorite to win. Phillip has dominated every cooking show I’ve seen him on and the quality of competition on chopped and cutthroat kitchen rivals top chef. Don’t understand what went wrong there is enough evidence from his performances on other shows to confirm how skilled he is, maybe it has more to do with personality than cooking ability.

  18. FWIW I’ve made stuffed rainbow trout on the grill many times and its fantastic with just a little stuffing, oil and lemons. The stuffing is really a side to the trout on the grill but does offer some aromatics and moisture.