Top Chef, S13E08.

If you’re looking for info on the top 100, it’s in today’s “Stick to baseball” links post.

This episode was definitely not my favorite. We got a challenge that wasn’t about cooking at all, then a challenge that was basically who can do the best Texas de Brasil impersonation.

* We do get some interesting background on Kwame before the Quickfire. When he was “about 19,” he was selling drugs to pay his tuition – I assume that last bit was connecting to the rupture between him and his father that he described in the previous episode – until his girlfriend told him he was “better than this,” after which he moved to Louisiana and became a professional cook. What I found really interesting about the monologue was when he said that he figured if he could be a successful drug dealer, he could be successful at something he really cared about. So selling drugs gave him the confidence to go be a great chef. That’s … weird, but good, I guess.

* Chad blow-dries his beard. I really have no words for this.

* Also, we see Karen and Marjorie sharpening their knives in the morning before challenge, a reminder to me that I just don’t do this often enough, mostly because I hate the sound of the knife scraping the stone.

* Quickfire: Food porn. Chef “Jacques La Merde” (merde is the French word for “shit”), an anonymous, minor celebrity on Instagram, is on in silhouette with his voice disguised, saying he’s “feeling pretty soigné today,” and keeps saying “bro,” just in case you weren’t in on the joke. The account has over 30K followers and posts pics of beautiful plates made from junk food. The quickfire challenge is for chefs have to do the same: make beautiful plates from junk food. Really. All nine plates will be (were) posted to Bravo’s Instagram account, and the one with the most likes wins the challenge. So it’s a plating challenge with immunity and it doesn’t matter what the food tastes like.

* Phillip says in the confessional that “You eat with your eyes before you eat with your mouth.” Then we get Isaac saying, “people who say they eat with their eyes first should be stabbed with a pork chop bone.” I’m Team Isaac, for what it’s worth.

* So half the chefs don’t seem to know what “soigné” means. It’s one of Chef La Merde’s favorite hashtags, and means refined or elegant if you want to sound like a total douche. The French word soigner just means to treat or take care of someone or something, but apparently we stole and distorted the word from them about two hundred years ago. They’re probably still mad at us.

* Amar loves spray cheese, saying, “That’s the original foam.” Silly me, I thought the original foam was whipped cream.

* Chef Jacques La Merde is actually Christine Flynn, a French Culinary Institute-trained chef who now works for the Toronto health food chain iQ Foods.

* Amar painted half his plate with fermented black bean paste to make it look like wood. That was the only thing I saw on any of these plates that looked clever.

* Kwame’s was the “first one that you could eat that would make sense. Pretty soigné.” That’s so much less amusing when it’s said out loud, isn’t it?

* Phillip going way overboard to take the ideal pic. Padma even has to hurry him along and count down “3, 2…” like she’s telling her kid to get upstairs for bed already.

* Elimination challenge: Neal Fraser, chef/owner of Redbird in LA, where they host occasional “beefsteak” banquets: Black-tie affairs, for charity, where guests only eat with their hands and are served beef tenderloin, whole roasted salmon, and a few side dishes. Fraser describes it as a “gluttonous feast,” which is not very soigné in 2016 when we know that people don’t need to eat all that protein, raising cows en masse is not environmentally sound unless it’s done very well, and overfishing and ocean acidification are depleting stocks around the globe. So, hey, let’s have a big celebration of overeating!

* The team of Marjorie-Isaac-Chad isn’t doing a beef dish at all. I do like her idea of doing bread as one of the sides because it becomes a vehicle for eating the other foods.

* Phillip just wants to cook lamb, so his team (with Amar and Jeremy) is not doing beef either.

* Amar buys a 25 pound, $575 halibut! I don’t even think that’s a very big halibut, but man that’s an expensive creature.

* Chad wants to make ahi tuna – originally he wanted another fish but Whole Foods only had a few pounds – yet can’t figure out how to serve it. You eat sushi with your hands and that is the quintessential fish for sushi. Maybe that’s too fussy for beefsteak, but if you’re choosing that fish, you have lots of raw and near-raw options for serving it.

* Isaac is making chicken sausage with bacon, which is their meat dish in place of beef. “It’s a good way of showing that chicken can be decadent … when it’s packed full of bacon!” So why not make a beef sausage with bacon? I’m thinking like the Bar at Husk burger, which I think is equal parts chuck, brisket, and bacon.

* Round one: Carl New Zealand lamb with prune, Amar halibut with mustard vin, cucumber, pickled red onion: jeremy roasted carrots with spiced yogurt, fried Brussels sprouts with bacon cilantro and sweet and sour sauce.

* The central group of judges and diners includes Colin Hanks, Simpsons executive producer Matt Selman (who appeared to be completely hammered), Top Chef Masters winner Chris Cosentino, Recipe for Deception host Max Silvestri, and our dear friend Hugh Acheson.

* Padma calls serving the halibut like this “a little pansy to me,” which was probably not the best choice of words. Hugh expresses the sentiment much more diplomatically, saying the food was “dainty.” Max says eating the lamb, where you grabbed the bone and tore the meat off with your teeth, was the one really satisfying moment.

* Hugh throws Padma’s half-eaten lamb at another table, which was absolutely the best part of the entire episode.

* Round two: Isaac’s chicken bacon sausage with grilled cabbage; Chad’s seared ahi tuna with citrus, pickled beets, radish, and black sesame; Marjorie’s assorted pickled vegetables and milk bread (which looks like Parker house rolls … I could eat those for days). The judges liked the sausage concept but it didn’t have enough fat. Colin Hanks says the “looked rad, (but) it did not taste rad.” Tom says of Chad’s dish that there shall be “no micro greens at a beef steak.” Marjorie’s stuff was good, of course.

* After Selman says – in that way a drunk person says something he thinks is hilarious but that is not actually funny – that a beefsteak should be about “sexism” (what?), Issac is quick with the response, “I wanted to put my sausage in your mouth.” Hugh, never to be outquipped, “You have a dry sausage, though, so I’m not sure I want to put it in my mouth.” I’m sure Padma thinks they’re all pansies by now.

* Round three: Kwame’s peel-and-eat shrimp with thyme, garlic, Cajun seasoning, and drawn butter; Carl and Karen’s roasted strip loin with romesco; Karen’s asparagus with chorizo and some undefined dish of potatoes and olives.

* Kwame seems to have actually messed a dish up for real: His shrimp ranged from overcooked to very overcooked and seems to have been oversalted. The beef dish was not “caveman” enough. Should they have just served roadkill? Actually – and I’m only saying this with the benefit of having seen the whole episode – if they could have gotten any sort of blood and made something with it, even black pudding, it might have gone over really well as a nod to the spirit of the challenge. But I didn’t think of that till after I watched, and blood isn’t easy to find.

* So the universal feedback is that nobody “got” the challenge. Maybe the problem was the challenge itself, right?

* Winner of the Quickfire Instagram challenge: Karen. Okay, who cares.

* Tom asks, “why didn’t we get decadence?” Well, selecting chefs for the show was probably about the chefs’ refinement and ability to build flavors or cook in new or unusual ways, so maybe you confused the hell out of them, or should have just invited Uncle Gus on the show instead.

* Amar, Jeremy, and Phillip had the favorite meal. Their lamb was the only protein served on the bone. Jeremy’s vegetable dishes were both good. Amar’s fish was done well, but was just not appropriate for the challenge. The winner, unanimously, was Phillip. Jeremy says right away, “nice dude! About time, huh?” Even though the other chefs find Phillip annoying, it doesn’t seem like they dislike him – or anyone in their ranks now, really.

* Marjorie, Chad, and Isaac on the bottom. Tom says, “If you’re doing to make us sausage, don’t serve us chicken.” I would have thought Isaac would have done some kind of andouille, something that lights you on fire and drips with pork fat, but the judges even said his sausage didn’t have a lot of taste. He says he makes it at his restaurant, so something was off. Marjorie’s vegetables and bread were delicious, with Tom saying, “I’d have to say you are the best baker to ever be on this show.” That is high praise.

* Padma says Chad’s dish “ate fine.” I hate that expression. It’s the “pitchability” of foodspeak – words that sound apposite and mean nothing at all.

* Chad is eliminated. Unsurprising – his dish really missed the mark and he never even seemed comfortable with his concept.

* Restaurant Wars next week! It’s a two-parter where they serve two meals and rotate roles, which might actually be more fair than the usual “exec chef of the losing team goes home.”

* Rankings: Kwame, Marjorie, Jeremy, Carl, Amar, Karen, Phillip, Isaac. I’m kind of floored Isaac didn’t crush this “RAWR MEAT” challenge, and his relative lack of range seems like a huge weakness given who else is left.

* LCK: Chad and Jason get 25 minutes to prep a beef dish, but only 5 minutes with their knives for butchering. Tom says he wants “to see your inner caveman here.” Chad goes for the head, Jason for the bone-in ribeye. Chad grinds up cheek, eye, and tongue to make chili. Jason is making chuleton with grilled onions, basil, mint, and braised olives, which seems like a dish perfectly suited to please Tom (if it’s cooked right). His response is kind of telling: “That’s like beefsteak!” Chad made a huitlacoche puree, no-bean chili, grilled cheek, and crème fraiche on top. Tom says the whole challenge was “fantastic” and both guys did a great job with their beef. And then he says Chad’s dish “ate really really well,” just to mock me. The winner is Jason. Tom thinks Chad underdid the cheeks a little, but still says it was a great dish. I can’t see Jason hanging with who’s left in the main show, though – Chad might have had a chance.

Comments

  1. I actually really liked this episode, even though Phillip won (my least favorite contestant ever, non-Marcel division). I thought the plating challenge was fun, the contestants seemed to enjoy it. It is top chef, not top cook, and plating is an important thing in fine dining (I don’t think it should be, but it is) and it was only a quickfire. Considering next week someone may well go home for how they run front of house, I don’t think a plating challenge is out of line. Then the elimination challenge was really interesting. It was fascinating that most of the chefs could get out of “fine dining” mode and into just serving up a lot of great, messy food. It was also weird two teams felt no need to serve beef at the beefsteak. Plus the judges seemed to be having a lot of fun, and having Hugh never hurts.

    I wish the show actually showed more cooking, but it doesn’t any more. So I’m happy if an episode shows people enjoying themselves, even if the food isn’t great.

  2. The quickfire was an absolute joke and I agree the challenge was not properly constructed. They have to plate properly in every (indoor) challenge anyway, so not sure why they needed to focus on that for a challenge that gives you immunity! Hugh was great as always, but the obnoxious guest judge was so annoying I almost just skipped right to the end. Thanks for the recaps as always – I tweeted out yesterday that you’d hate this one (except for Hugh).

  3. Christian Williams

    While Chad was uncommitted to his dish in the Beafsteak challenge, he was sent home not because of subpar cooking or taste but because of a lack of meeting the challenge concept. Boo to Top Chef for this episode.

    • Right. That was just inane. Truthfully, I was really happy he got sent home because Isaac is pretty much the only thing keeping this season from being painfully dull (Season 12 is a tough act to follow, but neither cooking nor personal likability comes close in this bunch), but it absolutely should have been Isaac.

  4. We wound up with this on the DVR and watched it after watching the MasterChef Junior finale. Let’s just say that it was a weird juxtaposition. Avery would have nailed the Beefsteak challenge.

    The one element of the QF that I liked was not finding out who had immunity until Judges’ Table. I don’t know if it would work every week, but that uncertainty hanging over their heads would eliminate the secure chef in a team challenge just mailing it in.

    I have to disagree with Brian above, when he says there hasn’t been enough emphasis on cooking this season. One of the reasons I’m enjoying this season more is that they have returned to presenting the contestants as chefs and not as another branch of Real Housewives.

  5. I hated this episode too, but mostly because it seemed to me like the judges were basing their critiques on really stupid criteria. If they were actually eliminating the person with the least appealing dish, that would have been Isaac easily–or honestly Kwame, but I’ve grown to perceive a new habit of unspoken immunity of the frontrunner with him, and with Gregory last year. They didn’t actually seem to think there was any flaw in the cooking or flavor of Chad’s dish, so why should he go before Isaac, who served bland, dry meat? Sure, you have a conceptual challenge, but ultimately quality of the food needs to go before spirit of the challenge when it’s this inane. I mean, it’s clear that Philip only won because he was the only one who served meat on a bone, and the judges got WAY too into this conceptual challenge.

    As for the Quickfire, honestly, I think it was sort of weird and self-contradictory. Like the whole deal behind the Chef Jacques account, from my perspective, is actually poking fun at the idea that plating matters at all, because you can make any kind of crap look pretty–and yet they use this as inspiration for a challenge where they reward them for making crap look pretty? I’m with Isaac on this one too. The most exciting mouthful of a good plate, to me, is one where every element is placed on the fork and tasted together to understand how the different components complement one another, and pretty plates basically never convey that bite.

    I don’t get why you rank Karen so poorly still. She’s been just as successful as Amar and Carl and has shown more range than Jeremy, who can’t seem to do much more than California cuisine. I may be biased because I’ve had an outstanding meal at Myers + Chang and we have a lot of mutual friends, but for me she is nudging the top three.

  6. I started this season hoping that Phillip would just be eliminated as quickly as possible, but now I’ve come to realize that he may be the most unintentionally hilarious Top Chef contestant ever and I hope he sticks around for the comedy. His lack of self-awareness and pretentiousness are impressive.

    • It is indeed hilarious, but I almost feel bad for him – like, how can someone have that little self-awareness? I’m not saying he has this, nor am I making light of the condition, but he comes across as a bit Asperger’s-ish in his inability to grasp 1) how others see him and 2) what people are saying to him ABOUT HIM.

  7. Keith, Amar is way too low in your rankings – consistently cooks pleasing food, never on the bottom, his floor is too high for where you have him ranked. I could see Kwame or Carl imploding before we get down to the final 4, but I can’t see Amar cook something the judges genuinely don’t like.

    Also how does Kwame not go home for overcooking a protein? I know he’s been strong early in the competition, but I think he’s hitting his innings limit…

    • I don’t think he has the ceiling, though – do you?

      Daphne nailed it. Kwame got the pass for being the star for six eps.

    • Honestly, I think he’s been drafting a bit – every time there’s a team challenge he’s on the winning team (pop-up challenge, golf course challenge, beefsteak). I think there’s something to be said for that – he was the voice of the team during the pop-up (although Marjorie’s dessert was clearly the star). 0 bottom threes, 4 top threes, (but zero wins so far).

  8. Didn’t think it was fair that they didn’t go over expectations for the elimination challenge enough. It was obviously confusing for a lot of them. Phillip was lucky to win and Chad left with a bonehead mistake.

  9. Two thoughts:

    1) I liked the challenge but they obviously did a really really bad job explaining it, since no one understood the concept of a Beefsteak until AFTER they were judged. I feel it would be more fair (especially to the diners) to give them a mulligan & try again. Ah well.

    2) As someone mentioned last week, LCK is much better this season. Tom is clearly having more fun with it & the chefs all look so much more rested & rejuvenated. You almost don’t even recognize Jason!

  10. Roger Ebert always said that crappy movies made for the most entertaining reviews. I think the same is true for shitty Top Chef episodes–this is the best review of the season (which is saying something).

  11. Kwame cooked the worst dish – saved by his team, I guess. He also cooked a bad dish in the previous episode. He’ll now be saved by Tom, as needed. And no one has to sell drugs to pay tuition. No need for that self-indulgent story.
    Amar has been consistently on the top.
    Fried seafood or shellfish (tough to get the good stuff in California) would have fit this challenge. That you can eat with your hands. I know that’s not a 5-star dish, but this wasn’t a 5-star challenge.
    Quick-fire for immunity is just lazy/cheap programming. Give a prize. Or give the winner some advantage where they can Alton Brown some of their competitors.
    Last Chance Kitchen absolutely should be blind judging and Tom C. shouldn’t be involved.
    Which begs the question -is this a contest or a vehicle for Tom C. to find who he thinks is the best cook?

    • “no one has to sell drugs to pay tuition.”

      That’s absurdly absolute, which is why it’s incorrect. There are a lot of people in the world.

  12. When they were menu-planning, Marjorie said something like “My Parker House Rolls are on point.” So that’s what they were. Maybe there’s some kind of trademark issue with calling them that in judging? Or maybe she has a variation on the “authentic” recipe?

  13. I sometimes wondered if the contestants asked questions about the challenges off-camera. At least in this episode the answer was clearly, no. Many of chefs seemed clueless of the expectations of their dishes.

    I have been a fan of the show since the beginning, but I’m rapidly losing interest. I now fast forward through large chunks of the show. That being said, I do like the LCK segments a lot.

    • I’m certain there is a Q&A or clarifying period when a challenge is presented that we don’t see on TV. I’m sure this is true of all reality shows. As Keith mentioned in an earlier recap, during the 10-ingredient quick fire, one chef grabbed salt — even though such staples are often available during ingredient-restricted challenges — and it makes me think they confirmed beforehand that this would not be the case here.

      Now, maybe they didn’t get that same opportunity here, which would be an error on the producers parts. However, if they did and they failed to ask the right questions or hear the responses, you have to put that on the chefs. With the exception of MAYBE Isaac, none of the remaining chefs strike me as particularly beefsteak-oriented. Usually there is at least one chef who is super into rustic proteins but none who remain seem that way. As such, I can see all of them overthinking it and then feeding off one another’s errors. I mean, I feel like I had a pretty good sense of the challenge just from what we saw… so I’m not sure what else they needed to hear.

  14. I don’t think I’ve ever been as infuriated about an episode of Top Chef as this one. When every team has someone that didn’t understand the intended concept, then the producers, host, and judges did a terrible job of explaining what they wanted.

    Also, it’s ludicrous that Chad got sent him not because of the flavor or execution of his food, but because it was “dainty.” No one like Isaac’s sausage, but Chad threw a microgreen on the plate and that was part of his downfall. Shame on everyone involved in the episode. I hope we never see anything like this again.

  15. Per Sean Brock’s cookbook Heritage, his burger is derived from portions of 3 lb chuck roast, 12 oz of flank steak and 3 oz of bacon.

    • that’s the ratio – so only about 5% bacon? You wouldn’t think that would make much difference. And flank steak is so lean I wouldn’t think to put that in a burger. Good info though, so thanks.

  16. Don Bashline

    I have a 9-year-old granddaughter who loves science and loves to cook. I looked at your cookbook recommendations for something that might combine her two interests, but I think the McGee book is too heavy for her (in more ways than one). Do you have any other ideas? She’s especially into baking. Thanks! Always enjoy reading your stuff.

  17. Don Bashline

    Keith – thanks so much! The book looks great and I’ve already ordered it.