Top Chef All-Stars finale.

So I’m happy with the result, both because I think Blais showed that he was the best chef there over the course of the regular season (not just the playoffs), but because I like a good redemption story, and I didn’t want to see him implode after another last-second loss. I thought the sous-chefs gave him a pretty good advantage – for all the talk about Spike as a Marcel-esque anchor, he seems to be great on a team and more Machiavellian when it’s an individual challenge – and he showed more leadership than Mike, who listened to what his team proposed and then did what he wanted anyway. (It’s the fake-listening that bugs me; either you’re listening, or you’re not. If you want to be a dictator, that’s fine. Dictators who insist they’re not dictators are in the news enough these days without another one on Top Chef.)

Ultimately, though, it seemed like the better food won out. Both chefs slipped slightly on their desserts, but Richard (with big help from Spike) made the adjustment between serving one and serving two. The editing at Judges’ Table seemed to downplay the problems with Mike’s custard, but the shot of Marcel and Stephen eating it (mostly conveying their dislike through facial expressions) spoke volumes to me, since neither one of them is going to hold back. And Richard’s food seemed much more inventive across the board; even the short rib dish that was “conventional” had a purpose, showing he can do more straightforward cuisine but do it better than anyone else there.

* Loved seeing more Restaurant Wars. And I love how all the chefs involved seem to get so into it, even last night when the sous-chefs had nothing riding on it for themselves but pride. It proved an ideal way to end a great season.

* Carla, who won fan favorite, has to get her own show at this point, right? The villainous Marcel may have technical skills, but likability and accessibility matter as well, and Carla has both to spare, while her style of cooking – kicked-up comfort food – is extremely trendy and yet taps into a fundamental aspect of the American food experience. Blais offers the food I’d most want to travel and pay to eat, but Carla’s food is the kind I’d want to eat night-in and night-out.

* I appreciate knowing that the way to Gail Simmons’ heart is via pepperoni sauce … even though I have to say that it doesn’t sound appealing to me at all. I associate the flavor of pepperoni with how I ate when I was younger and didn’t really know food or the vast array of alternatives available; I’d reach for chorizo or andouille or linguica or about a dozen cured Italian meat products before I’d ever ask for a slice of pepperoni. But I’ll take Gail’s word for it that Mike’s “crazy business” was the real deal.

* How about Padma showing so much emotion in these last few episodes? First she tears up when they send Antonia packing. Then she gets choked up when Hubert Keller points out how hard it’s going to be to choose between Blais and Mike. And the hug she gave Blais at the end had a real “thank God you won” look to it. I’m not complaining, but I’m surprised after seeing her seem so much colder in the last two seasons. New Padma is much better to watch – these are real people competing, after all, and it’s perfectly fair to be emotional as long as your decisions remain objective. I’ve seen the fembot act from Heidi Klum on Project Runway, and it’s tired.

* And credit due to Tom for giving props to Mike after the loss – and the editors for including it. But I could have done without the shot of Mike’s wife looking so downcast after Blais won. It seemed mildly exploitative. Show the contestants; the family never asked be in that position.

* I’ve got an upcoming trip to Atlanta, so if anyone there scouts out Blais’ Flip burger place, I’d love an advance report – including whether the line is a mile long after his big win.

Comments

  1. My wife and I picked 3 “horses” this season, and I gave her the first pick, since she was suicidal when Richard blew his shot in the s4 finale. She picked Richard, Fabio, and Spike; I picked Casey, Jamie, and Jen (despite how dumb this looks, Keith – I promise I know wins and RBI are meaningless).

    Needless to say, I owe her an expensive dinner, but I’m damn happy, since I was rooting for Richard all along.

  2. I really enjoyed the inclusion of Blais telling his wife on the phone. I wish they could have spent a few more seconds on that and gotten her full reaction. I am a big TeamBlais person but even if I don’t care for Mike as a person very much his food seemed to improve drastically over his previous season and even over the early episodes of this season.

  3. I was in Atlanta two weeks ago and hit up Blais’ place as well as Top Chef winner Kevin Gillespie’s Woodfire Grill. Went to Flip at 7 PM on a Thursday night and was lucky to get seated right away, but average wait time seemed about 15-20 min. If I remember, they didn’t take reservations. Burger (The Local) was actually a little disappointing- too high of a bun:meat ratio. Sides were great, especially the caramelized brussels sprouts. Had the Krispy Kreme Li N2 milkshake which was delicious but extra sweet. Tasting menu at Woodfire was excellent and Kevin himself was on the line working the wood-fired grill and expediting. Both places worth checking out if you have the time

  4. John Osberger

    Hey Keith,

    I live in Atlanta and pretty close to Flip (the original on Howell Mill). Sad to say his win will have no effect on the lines – they are already pretty long unless you eat at 3pm. I’ve been twice and have enjoyed the food both times. I wasn’t very adventurous with my choices (picky palate), but my wife has been and she’s enjoyed it as well. Aside from the lines, my other complaint would be the restaurant is virtually all glass and the AC just couldn’t keep up in the middle of summer. Though I can’t imagine that is going to be an issue for you.

  5. I have a few Atlanta recommendations:

    Antico Pizza near Georgia Tech
    La Tavola in Virginia Highlands (the burrata appetizer is amazing)
    Muss and Turner’s in Vinings (spectacular burgers and fries)

  6. Anyone else think that Jen was a bit too emotional and attached to Mike last night?

  7. My wife just went to Atlanta and went to the Varsity and Flip Burger. She wrote about on her blog. http://www.goodcookdoris.com/2011/03/atlanta-eats-varsity-flip-burger.html

  8. Live in Atlanta, been to Flip numerous times. Wait can vary, of course worse at peak dining hours on weekends. They don’t take reservations. Burgers while really good, can vary on consistency as far as meat cooked. Chorizo, Pimento, or Turkey burger are all very good. Sides are solid, nothing spectacular. Milkshakes are great, nutella burnt marshmallow, krispy kreme. The seasonal ones are fantastic, pumpkin pie, pistachio. My wife had the captain crunch shake which she said was awesome. He was planning to make that as an ice cream last night originally in the finale. He does do the foie gras milkshake, wonder how that compares to the ice cream from the finale. I’m sure there will be some extra people there as a result of the win but definitely worth a visit.

  9. Definitely agree with Chris, Antico is a must-go. Best pizza in Atlanta.

  10. Mann of Sandd

    Flip is overpriced and overrated, and I don’t think Blais does much more than consulting there. I second the recommendation for Woodfire as it provided me with one of the best meals of my life recently.

    Blais is actually considered somewhat of a joke among Atlanta chefs I’ve spoken with, which surprised me. He has a long list of shaky ventures here though.

    Chris, thanks for the M&T shout out (I work there). If Keith were to visit I would also suggest our Reuben.

  11. Hey Keith,
    I really enjoy reading what you have to say, I’m an insider and can’t wait for the chat each week. I stopped here today to get your thoughts on TC and thought you were right on! Next up over for the Thursday chat 🙂 Question for you, any players on the MB Pelicans (Texas Rangers High A team) that I should get out and watch? When you mention Atlanta I thought about the Braves and they owned the Pelicans last year. Anyway great job, must be fun!! Thanks Andy

  12. Iberian Pig in Decatur is excellent.

    Flip Burger is best to go off-peak, and my gut tells me that Richard’s win won’t have too much of an impact on the ability to get seated there.

    As for comment 10, about Richard being a joke among Atlanta chefs… kudos to them. I bet there are plenty of minor leaguers who make fun of Alex Rodriguez.

  13. I want to add, I’ve recently been to Atlanta, I didn’t get to Flip, but definitely go to woodfire and get the tasting menu.

    To be fair, it’s almost on par with 1 Michelin star places I’ve eaten, but not better. Still definitely worth it.

  14. My favorite restaurant in Atlanta is Restaurant Eugene. The tasting menu there is definitely worth it. I would also recommend Muss and Turners.

  15. You may know this already, but Flip has two locations in Atlanta, one on Howell Mill (the original) and one on Roswell Road that just opened up a couple of months ago. I have been to each, and live near the Roswell location; it seems like the Roswell one has fewer patrons and a shorter wait time. Hope you will enjoy!

  16. Flip is worth a visit but try a few different things as the menu can be hit or miss. Everyone here is hoping Blaise will now open a restaurant rather than a burger joint–not that there’s anything wrong with burger joints. Others have made some fine suggestions already: Antico is not just the best pizza in Atlanta (that’s saying very little) but honestly should be part of the conversation about the best pizza in the country. Woodfire is worth the tab. They do some astounding things with pork especially. And speaking of burgers: Ann’s Snack Bar has the ghetto burger–once called the best burger in the country–but read up on it before going. It’s a time investment you may not be willing to make.