TV today: ESPNEWS, 4:10-4:30 EDT as part of the Insider segment with Jerry Crasnick.
Radio: Northsound 1380 AM, Everett, Washington, with the Fish, 5:30 pm PDT. Also, ESPN 540 Milwaukee, Wednesday, 11:15 am CDT (streaming available online).
I have to say that I underestimated Milwaukee, figuring I was headed into a culinary wasteland filled with fat people who eat brats and drink pale beer all the time. It was actually one of the best eating towns I’ve been to all year, especially in the very funky area between Brady Street and North Street west of Prospect, which is definitely where I’d live if I moved there and could stand winters cold enough to turn your testicles necrotic.
First meal might have been the best – lunch at Cempazuchi on Brady Street. It’s sort of an upscale twist on Mexican food, with a heavy dose of authentic Mexican dishes mixed in. I started with the sopa de lima, a clear soup with chicken, lime juice, and tortilla strips, and then ordered the pork “torta,” Cempazuchi’s term for an unusual sandwich on pan frances with avocado, jalapeño, and onions. Both were phenomenal. The soup had just the right balance of acid, salt, and a touch of heat, and had obviously been assembled seconds before it reached the table. The sandwich was filled with pulled pork, apparently smoked properly since it wasn’t dry and didn’t require a sauce, and came on soft bread that had been sliced and grilled. The sandwich also came with a half-hearted garden salad with sliced radishes and an indeterminate white dressing. The meal starts with two salsas, one that was “peanut-based” that had an odd texture (shocking), and another with roasted tomatoes and garlic that was too thin but had a great smoky flavor.
Saturday’s breakfast was at Beans & Barley, a combination café and natural foods store just off North Street. There was no pork on the menu, so my EMPT included chicken sausage, which was cooked to death and mostly inedible. Everything else was excellent, particularly the breakfast potatoes, new red potatoes sliced and roasted with rosemary. The café serves Rishi teas (rhymes with “chichi”), but their only black tea is Earl Grey. It comes in a big ceramic pot with a strainer inside filled with loose tea, but it was already dark and bitter the moment it reached the table, meaning that it had been brewing too long. The properly-made scrambled eggs and the amazing potatoes still make it worth a trip.
I hit up a reader suggestion for Saturday dinner, Pizza Man, across the street from Beans & Barley. That’s where I had my lone beer of the trip, an ale from New Glarus with a fruity taste and medium body; I prefer darker beers, so this probably wasn’t the best choice, but it was their only local beer on tap. For dinner, the pizzas looked like they had the proper crust but were overtopped, so I went with one of the recommended specials, wild boar ravioli in a marsala sauce. The ravioli were excellent; I’ve never had boar before, but the flavor of the ravioli was very much like bacon. The sauce, on the other hand, was bitter with a pretty clear note of alcohol, meaning that it wasn’t cooked enough. The dish came with this amazing light garlic bread, not greasy at all and perfect for absorbing sauce, if you wanted the sauce absorbed. Pizza Man also has a huge wine list, and the décor – Old World Dungeon – reminded me of a place my wife and I visited in Siena almost ten years ago, an upscale “medieval” place called Il Gallo Nero.
Milwaukee being the center of the frozen custard world, I had to make sure to hit a few spots while I was on the ground. (Frozen custard is a style of ice cream that relies on egg yolks for texture, as opposed to “Philadelphia” ice cream, which contains no eggs and uses more butterfat.) Of the three places I tried, Gilles, Leon’s, and Oscar’s, Gilles wins the overall prize for the best combination of flavor and texture. All three places had very smooth custards, and Leon’s probably was the smoothest of all but both the chocolate and vanilla were timid, particularly the chocolate. At Gilles, I went with the flavor of the day, “turtle,” which had caramel and pecans mixed in and maybe a tiny bit of fudge. The vanilla flavor still came through in the custard, and the texture was just a shade below Leon’s. Oscar’s “mud pie” – allegedly mocha custard with hot fudge and Oreo knockoff cookies – had the worst texture, just slightly icy, and the knockoff cookies weren’t very good, but the custard did have a strong chocolate flavor.
I also approve of the Milwaukee Public Market, which is a fairly small building that houses maybe a dozen merchants, from a produce stand to a real fishmonger to a spice house to a few stands selling prepared foods. If I lived in Milwaukee, I’d be there all the time. The coffee-shop in the Market, the Cedarburg Coffee Roaster, roasts at least some of its coffees right there at the stand, which was a positive sign for their espresso. A double espresso macchiato (they don’t sell singles) runs $2.75, and while the beans were obviously fresh, the espresso was underextracted, resulting in a powerfully sour shot; the most likely explanation is that the barista used more grounds than necessary for the pull. It was a waste of what I think was pretty good coffee.
I also went to The Soup & Stock Market and ordered a bowl of their chicken and dumpling soup, which included real hand-made dumplings (obviously pinched out of dough by an actual hand) and was based on their own homemade stock (available frozen for purchase if you don’t want to make your own stock at home). The soup was very good, if just a little underflavored, filled with dumplings and chicken and vegetables; the stock was a bit on the light side, but it had the great mouth-feel you only get from soup made with stock. The soup also came with a hunk of a pretty amazing dense white bread. I also bought a bottle of Haley and Annabelle’s Vanilla Root Beer, brewed by two girls aged 10 and 5, with proceeds going to their college education fund. It was at least solid-average, better than any national brand, with a dark color, deep root beer flavor, but probably a little more sugar than I’d like. It’s behind, say, Thomas Kemper’s (my gold standard), but I admit I was sucked in by the story and the cause.
The one dud meal was breakfast at Miss Katie’s Diner, an old-school greasy-spoon near Marquette’s campus. Absolutely everything was drenched in butter, and I don’t mean that in a good way. The hash browns were soggy from frying in so much grease, the toast was buttered so heavily that I could see through it, and the eggs ended up sitting in the grease that was on the plate. There were definitely better options out there for Sunday breakfast.
Keith,
Been a fan of the ESPN blogs for quite some time, and didn’t know you were a foodie to boot. My wife and I dined at Il Gallo Nero in Siena about 4 years ago. Fantastic. I had pappardelle in a rabbit/hare sauce, absolutely exquisite. I kept reading through your blog and saw the post this past summer about kale. My wife and I started using it last winter and devised an Italian dish with it. Check it out (and many other Italian culinary gems) here:
http://www.sundaysauceny.com/my_weblog/the-recipes/
Keep bloggin’
“Jonny Mangia”
PS – I have a tie to MLB as well. Was the 2nd guy hired to produce content for their nascent web site back in 1996 and produced/wrote for them through ’99.
Sometimes I wonder if tea isn’t more popular in America simply because most cafes and restaurants have no idea how to make it properly.
Keith,
Any recommendations for good dark beers you like, besides Guinness on tap, which may be available in the Northeast?
If I hadn’t blanked on it I would have recommended getting turtles at any custard place you went to. It’s the signature custard dish out here – the pecans they use at some places are incredible (Michael’s in Madison comes to mind)
Do you remember which New Glarus you had? Spotted Cow is their most prolific offering, but they make a good variety
The New Glarus ale must have been Fat Squirrel.
Milwaukee is pretty decent place to eat, so I’m glad you found that it’s more than beer and brats.
And if you didn’t realize it, Gilles is Bud Selig’s favorite custard place. I prefer Kopps, especially when they have Tiaramasu (sp?)
Chris,
I’m a dark beer drinker myself, so I’ll toss out my favorites (NB, I tend to prefer British style beers and eschew the hoppier American styles – if you like your dark beer hoppy, Rogue is probably as good as any, but that’s more word of mouth):
Sam Smith’s Oatmeal Stout (pricey, but well worth it)
Young’s Double Chocolate Stout (widget can; very rich, perhaps a bit sweet for some people’s tastes)
Mackeson’s XXX (may be harder to find; a nice milk stout)
Spaten Optimator (German doppelbock; I don’t know that much about German beers, but I enjoy this one. I’ve also enjoyed the Allgäuer Cambonator, another German doppelbock, but I don’t think I’ve seen it in stores)
Belhaven Scottish Ale (strictly speaking, not as dark as the others, but I had to throw it in, as it’s a personal favorite – incredibly smooth, especially on tap)
If you’re looking slightly cheaper, I’ve always thought Saranac makes a solid beer at a good price; the Caramel Porter is a personal favorite, though it’s only available in the winter, and often you can only find it in their mix packs.
I’ve also heard good things about Bell’s (a Michigan brewery), but I’m not sure how much luck you’ll have finding it.
Enjoy!
Spotted Cow. I couldn’t remember it when I wrote the post.
Oh, and Spaten Optimator is awesome, but the “doppel” means it’s 8% ABV. I can’t drive after having one.
If we’re on the topic of great English dark beers, I’d highly recommend “Old Speckled Hen.” Creamy ale – incredibly smooth and not a hint of bitterness
Keith, if “testicular necrosis” is the only thing holding you back from living in that area, I’ll kindly inform you that there is a Whole Foods on the corner of North Ave. and Prospect. Pack your bags.
Thanks for the kind words about the city. Go Brew Crew!
Andy – I was in that Whole Foods after going to Pizza Man. Looks nice and new, too.
Thanks for the recs, Preston. I’ve had Optimator before, it’s good stuff. I am a huge dark beer fan, and always like to hear what other people like.
Of late, I’ve been drinking Founder’s (a Mich. brewery) Breakfast Stout. It may be one of the best stouts I’ve ever had. Difficult to find, depending on where you live, but worth a try.
Also, I like Rogue’s Chocolate Stout quite a bit. And Troegs (a Harrisburg, Pa brewery) Dead Reckoning Porter.
And if you like really dark beer, try Yeti Imperial Stout from the Great Divide Brewery. Since it’s an Imperial stout, it’s up there in the 11% abv range, I believe.
I’ll have to try the Sam Smith Oatmeal. I’ve seen it before, but never tried it. Next on my list.
Keith,
The best breakfast place in Milwaukee is definitely not Miss Katie’s Diner, its “The Original Pancake House”, which isn’t a chain but its off Downer Ave. and Park Ave. If you ever come to Milwaukee again, that’s the place to be.
Derek: That is one of a nationwide chain, and I’ve been to one in Birmingham. It’s fine, nothing that special though, and I prefer to find local spots when I can.
I had had a good recommendation for Hotch-a-Do, across from Beans & Barley, but they don’t open until 9 on weekends, which was too late for me.
You went out for custard & missed Kopp’s? Are you kidding me? Whoever did your research should be made to eat at Miss Katie’s for a week straight.
Ok, fair enough. Prince (Fielder) was there this weekend so I guess its a good thing you didn’t go, he might have put them out of business. I’m surprised you didn’t hit a steak restaurant, Eddie Martini’s off I-45 and Watertown Plank Road comes to mind. Solly’s (hamburger joint) is very highly rated, as well as Kopps ice cream, which you probably should have gone to for some custard.
There’s no Kopp’s in Milwaukee or near the stadium, right? This wasn’t the kind of trip where I could go a half-hour out of my way for ice cream.
Keith,
You should have gone to Cafe Hollander off Downer Ave. Really good selection of dark/foreign beer.
My friends and I had a saying about Miss Katie’s when we were in school at Marquette:
It’s like Ed Debevic’s (a place where the waitstaff insults you for a gag for those not in the know on stupid theme restaurants), only they’re serious. Also, the waitresses all have vintage 1983 hairstyles.
All the way to Milwaukee and all you had was a Spotted Cow. That’s a tough break. Wisconsin has tons of great beer, and New Glarus has some great beers. I wouldn’t include Spotted Cow as one of the better products, but it is popular. If you get back, you should try Lakefront Brewery (Eastside Dark sounds like it’d be up your alley). I’m also a huge fan of Lake Louie Brewing Company’s Arena Premium (not a particularly dark beer, but very good–they also have a good porter). Another good choice would be Capital Brewery’s Autumnal Fire (a doppelbock). You could also check out Sprecher’s Bavarian Black. I hope you get to try a few other beers next time you get to Wisco.
Keith, that Whole Foods is about two years old, if you’re interested. Hope you took advantage of the attached parking garage and escalators. The little things in life…
Keith
There’s a Kopps off of Silver Sping near the east side. Plus one on 76th about 3 miles south of the park.It’s as close as Leons to Miller park. Next time hit Crazy water for great Seafood and The Jackson Grille for an out of body experience with Steak. The Grille is a mile from Miller park. Crazy Water maybe 2 or 3.
Go Brwers!
Keith,
There isn’t a Kopps right near the stadium, or technically, in Milwaukee anymore since the one on 60th and Appleton closed. If you had ventured less than 10 minutes north/northwest from North Ave. into Glendale, however, you would’ve been in Custard Heaven.
Local dark beers: Lakefront Riverwest Stein or Eastside Dark were made only about 1/2 mile from the Pizza Man you ate at and are two of my favorite local beers. the Riverwest is particularly outstanding, IMO.
Miss Katie’s was featured on one of Rachel Ray’s travel shows about Milwaukee. I live exactly 2 blocks away from the place and have eaten there twice in the year I have lived in Milwaukee. And I don’t intend to return.
I basically agree with you on the custard rankings. I’m an Oscar’s fan personally because I like the flavor of their chocolate (and chocolate Whopper) custard the best. Most of the other chocolate custards in town remind me too much of bad fudgesicles from my youth.
One doppel has you down for the count, Keith? Really? No wonder they won’t let you in the BRAA…
If you’re in Wisconsin during cold weather, try a Grey’s Oatmeal Stout. It’s brewed near Madison. Thick, creamy and very smooth-my wife says there’s a pork chop in every bottle. I always bring home a six-pack when I visit. Also, Spottted Cow is not the best beer in the excellent New Glarus stable. Try the Uff-Da Bock, or the Organic variety. The last time I was in Milwaukee, I noticed a lot of new restaurants on Knickiknick Ave. in Bay View. That area is radically different than it was ten years ago, and seems to be the new east side. Go Brewers!
Hey Keith – when you are in town for the AzFL, try these places to eat:
Haji Baba’s
2131 E Apache Blvd, Tempe –
Good Middle Eastern Food. If you like gyros, their gyro platter comes with a boat load of rice and salad.
Joe’s BBQ
301 N Gilbert Rd
Gilbert, AZ 85234
Best BBQ I have had in the 2+ years here. If you liked Honey Bears, you will love Joe’s. Try the Ribs and the Brisket…the pork is good too, but what I recommended is better. Try the I Dare You sauce…hot hot hot!
Enjoy the Fall League Trip!
Wow, Jim great call. Grey’s makes some great beers (from Janesville). Oscar’s Oatmeal stout is another good Wisconsin stout, if darker beers are your thing. Essentially, Keith, I think you need to completely reconsider your thought process when it comes to Wisconsin beer. Pennsylvania, with its German heritage, has some good beers. New England has some great beers with Harpoon, Tremont Brewery, and Otter Creek, among others. That said, Wisconsin has many, if not more, great beers!
Keith,
Great reviews on Milwaukee dining. I’ve grew up there, still visit there and have lived in the NYC area and the deep south. Milwaukee is a great food city. I know most people wouldn’t know this, or expect this, but America can surprise people if they let it.
There is a great European history to Milwaukee. Milwaukee and NYC had the largest foreign born population in the US in 1880-1900. There is a strong tradition of good food and ethnic dining.
Also, about supermarkets in the Milwaukee area in general, your typical market is nearly as good as a Whole Foods. When I moved out to NYC area, I started to realize why so many people rave about Whole Foods, it is because most markets are pretty rough and run down. A lot of this is due to crowding and real estate and general margins in grocery are thin, but Milwaukee has 2 downtown markets that are at least equal or better than the Whole Foods in the East Side. Go to the MERTO MARKET next time. You will see what I am talking about.
There is a Kopps rather close to the Leons and Miller Park you went to. 76th and Layton. Great burgers too. Jackson Grill and Sobelmans are both great dining options near Miller Park. Note that for next time. Kopps has the best Vanilla and flavors. The owner of Kopps also owns a restaurant in SoHo, Bar 89 on Mercer. Pretty random, but it is not like Kopps Milwaukee, more like Elsa’s on the Park in Milwaukee.
For the famous Milwaukee breakfast dish, Benji’s just a bit further north of Brady on Oakland. the famous Hoppel Poppel. http://www.roadfood.com/Reviews/Overview.aspx?RefID=2167
Also, shockingly, yes I know, Milwaukee has dominant corned beef and pastrami at Jake’s Deli.
Finally, Milwaukee pizza is very good, very solid. Thin crust, to cracker style. Pizza Man is very good, if you think it is over topped (that is Milwaukee style), I can see that, then try Zaffiro’s that should have the toppings just “right”. That 1 block from Brady and Farwell. It is near cracker thin crust.
Or right near Miller Park, Balistreri’s, 1 mile west of Miller Park on Bluemound rd.
I’m sure you will be back at some point, check out a few of these places and a few local pubs, great bars/pubs in Brewtown.
Here is a list of a ranking of the top 30 Milwaukee restaurants from the late, great food critic Dennis Ghetto. Most are still open for business, list still very relevant.
http://www.jsonline.com/story/index.aspx?id=616586
Brian – I won’t be anywhere near those towns on this trip. The AFL has teams in Phoenix, Mesa, Scottsdale, Peoria, and Surprise, and I have no time to stray more than a few minutes from any stadium.
Peter – good stuff. I had seen several good reviews for Jake’s Deli, but I despise corned beef and I’m not huge on pastrami either. Those seem to be their two signature foods.
I’m sure Keith could have used most of these recommendations when he asked for them before the trip! As a Wisco native, glad to see it represented well.
Keith,
Thank you for being the only person that doesn’t worship the food at Miss Katie’s Diner. As a Marquette student, I can tell you it is nothing special. However, Rachel Ray, Hillary Clinton, and the Happy Days cast all went there when they were in town. Over-rated.
Keith,
Cempazuchi is one of my favorites. They have a ‘corn soup’ that is not on the menu and is only available in season, but if you happen back it is to die for. It is made largely from roasted pablanos and corn, but done expertly. Just enough rising heat from the Pablanos to pair with the flavor of the corn and the amazing texture…
Kopps is maybe 15 minutes from where you were. It has wonderful custard and big greasy burgers.
Finally, while Spotted Cow is the New Glarus trademark beer, I don’t know that they are the best source for a really good dark beer. I second the nomination for the Lake Louie Porter given above. The nice thing that you can get in Milwaukee that isn’t always in other places is that usually when they have a interesting or good beers on tap, they actually sell so you don’t have so much concern that they have been sitting around for too long.