Callum sent along this great New York Times article on the evolution of soft-serve ice cream:
Young chefs around the country, with fond memories of Dairy Queen stands and Mister Softee trucks, are remaking soft-serve ice cream, with epicurean takes on traditional ingredients as well as some things never before seen spiraling out of an icy nozzle, like saffron, bourbon and jalapeño flavors.
At Sketch Ice Cream, a shop in Berkeley, Calif., boysenberry, balsamic Bing cherry, white peach and strawberry are the soft serves of choice this month; vanilla is always available.
I grew up with and am still totally partial to Carvel ice cream, one of the original soft-serve ice cream vendors. Carvel’s product is technically a frozen custard because it contains egg yolks, although it turns out that it also contains mono- and diglycerides, which come from natural sources but aren’t strictly necessary for a good soft-serve product. That won’t stop me from eating Carvel, since it tastes great and still has the best texture I’ve ever had in soft-serve ice cream, but maybe it’s time for me to branch out a little.
Cold Stone put a damper on the soft-serve. Why settle for the traditional vanilla soft-serve in a waffle cone when I get can have a scrumptious “like it” cheesecake ice cream with a Mr. Goodbar topping. I hate how they sing when you tip.
Mono and diglycerides often comes from animal fat, not just plant oil. This is the reason that many products (often bread) that contain mono and diglycerides are not kosher. Carvel’s mono comes from plants so it is certified kosher.
I grew up with Carvel being the only ice cream game in town and I still get cravings for the soft serve, although there’s no other reason to go there. Baskin Robbins just started doing soft serve and it’s not even close to as good.
Way off topic, but did anyone see video of the brawl in the Class A game between Dayton (Reds) and Peoria (Cubs) from last night? It was a full on gang war. You can see a clip posted on the four letter.
Julio Castilla is seen absolutely flinging the ball towards the Dragon’s dugout but missed (missed the entire dugout! A pitcher!) and hit a Peoria fan in the second row in the face. Yeah, he went to jail last night. It was an abslute melee. I live in Dayton and I’m sorry I missed it.
There’s Carvel and everything else. I grew up minutes from the first store (due to close – http://www.seriouseats.com/required_eating/2007/08/death-of-an-ice-cream-shop.html – but last time I drove past it was still there), and have a lot of fond memories…
As a St. Louis resident, I must stay loyal to Ted Drewes’ frozen custard.
Keith, If you are ever in Cincinnati you should try Graeters ice cream. It’s not soft serve but is about the best non-gelato ice cream I have ever had outside of Italy.
I too am partial to Carvel since I grew up on Long Island. While there are a few Carvels in my adopted home of Los Angeles I rarely head over for a soft serve cone since there are closer ice cream options to my house. I did go to a birthday party here recently for another Long Island native and there was a Fudgie The Whale cake which was nice.
Also, Klaw- Thanks for the link on the sidebar. I’m honored.
My sister worked at a Carvel store while in high school and I worked next door to the same one at a video store.
Best ice cream ever!
Large soft vanilla with colored sprinkles in a dish.
And I loved that the Fudgie the Whale pan was used for Santa Claus during Christmas, etc.
And the guy who did the commercials was classic!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cs1Vc_w9Nc8
Keith have you ever been to Grom in NYC (UWS or West Village)? Excellent, but expensive, gelato. They have stores scattered throughout Italy.
I grew up with DQ and I still love it. If I want toppings mixed in I just get a Blizzard and it’s very comparable to Cold Stone although Cold Stone has ckae batter ice cream which is amazing!
I’ve always looked down on soft serve, since I grew up on Wisconsin-style frozen custard, and nothing else remotely tastes as good. But what is the difference between soft serve and ‘regular’ ice cream/custard?
The main difference is temperature. Soft-serve frozen custards often have less fat, too, replacing some of the butterfat with egg yolks.
Having had all three, I can say with confidence that Carvel > Ted Drewes & Dairy Queen.
Never been to Grom – will definitely check it out on my next trip to NYC.
I loathe Cold Stone. Way too sweet. Marble Slab is far better, although I still prefer gelato and frozen custard to that.
Keith, as a former Long Islander, I’m pretty partial to the soft serve ice cream that they used to serve at Jones Beach right at the entrance to the boardwalk between fields 4 and 5. Wondering if you remember it?
Malcolm – that was some great ice cream at jones beach. we would always get it on the way out for the walk back to the car. but growing up in the bronx, Carvel will always be king.
My favorite is Kohr Bros, but admittedly the only Carvel I know comes in ice cream cakes in the grocery store.
When do we get your thoughts on Nady/Marte for Tabata/Ohlendorf/etc.?
I think my favorite birthday’s growing up involved Carvel’s ice cream cakes. I don’t miss it, though. Living in Milwaukee, I’ve found that the frozen custard out here is a fine substitute.
I submitted my trade writeup two hours ago. Don’t know when they’ll post it.
It’s been posted. Thanks.
Keith, if you end up in the Wisconsin/Illinois area, give Culvers a try. Tremendous custard, I must say.
–chris
If you wanna go for a national chain…Ritas custard and gelatis are MONEY.
Seconded on Culvers. Their custard is pretty good (though I wouldn’t launch it to ‘great’), but their burgers and other food are quite good. Actually, the best custard that I’ve had is from Milwaukee Frozen Custard, which strangely enough can be found all over northern VA (it was founded by a Milwaukee transplant)
Keith,
In Vegas, definitely try the Lotus of Siam on Sahara. The location is sketchy, but the menu is easily the most comprehensive I’ve seen in any Thai restaurant (the Northern menu is especially fascinating and rare). The prices are outrageously low, and the roasted duck curry is excellent. I also really enjoyed their dessert platter with mango coconut rice, coconut ice cream, and fried bananas.
If you feel like doing the Vegas buffet thing, the World Buffet at the Rio is probably the least bad of the affordable ones.
Like Mr. Poon, I also grew up minutes from the first Carvel and am sad to see it go. Interestingly enough, the reason for the location is that it happened to be where Tom Carvel’s ice cream truck broke down at the side of the road. Carvel cakes, by the way, are the best icream cakes, and the crunchies are the key ingredient. I say this despite the fact I worked at Baskin Robbins all through high school.
Cold Stone, to me, seems like a weak rehash of Steve’s from Boston, which was vastly superior in that I think they made all of the ice cream on site in most stores. Does anyone else recall Steve’s? Do they still exist in Boston?
Keith,
when in Philly, be sure to check out Capogiro Gelato (capogirogelato.com). Addictively fresh, unique and tasty flavors (Rosemary honey goat milk and one made from yellow watermellon & grappa are two of my favorites). Expensive, but worth it in my opinion.
(I agree with your regarding Carvel — I still haven’t outgrown the cravings for their ice cream cakes — those little chocolatey-crunchy-cookie-piece things are key. Plus where else can you say Cookie Puss?)