Florida eats (part one)

So I’ll be here in Florida for most of the rest of March, but rather than posting a leviathan piece at the end of the month, here’s a rundown of the non-chain places I’ve hit since I got down here on the 14th.

The first find of the trip was a little café in the City Place mall in Palm Beach called Bacio. The appeal is that they serve gelato – real gelato, without the grainy or icy texture that most American gelaterias dish out. It was pricey – $4.50 for a medium dish – but the chocolate gelato was excellent, not too sweet with a good cocoa flavor. The crème caramel was a little too sugary and not caramelly enough, but was still good, while the strawberry tasted like real strawberries and (most impressively, since the extra moisture from the fruit can screw things up) had no icy texture at all.

On my two trips down to see the University of Miami play, I hit two restaurants along the Dixie Highway (US-1) for dinner. The first was a Colombian place called Las Culebrinas, just down SW 27th street a few hundred yards off US-1. I had gotten the impression from something I read online that it was a casual place, but it’s not – it’s a somewhat upscale, sit-down restaurant, although they told me I was fine in my rather casual scouting outfit. The menu was standard Colombian, with all the hits, but with one twist – about a dozen dishes are available in tapas-sized portions, in addition to the large menu of entrées. I went for the fried pork, which was served on a bed of pureed avocado, with sides of black beans and rice and steamed (I think) yucca. I also ordered a side of maduros, fried sweet plantains, and one of my favorite foods in the world. The waitress/bartender warned me “It’s a lot of food,” and she didn’t lie – three huge chunks of pork, fried perfectly with a nice salty crust, plus almost a whole yucca (in spears), and separate dishes with the black beans and rice and the plantains. The yucca was undercooked, which I don’t like and don’t trust (raw yucca contains cyanide, which breaks down through the cooking process), and since it’s carb-laden anyway, I figured it would take up real estate in my stomach better reserved for the plantains, which were delicious – moderately sweet, cooked to still have a little tooth to them. The black beans and rice were good, very simple without any other obvious ingredients. Total cost was about $18 plus tip, and I did leave so full that I didn’t eat anything the rest of the night.

Moon is a Thai/Japanese place right next to a Starbucks on the northbound side of US-1. I generally avoid combo restaurants, but this one had several good reviews, and Asian joints are usually good for getting in and out quickly. It turned out to be a stroke of luck, as they had my favorite Thai dish and general bellwether, pad thai, available in an appetizer portion ($7.95, I believe), allowing me to also order a little sushi and try both sides of the menu. The pad thai was very good, tangy, spicy, just a hint of peanut, and not American-sweet. The sushi was a mixed bag; the salmon was definitely fresh, but didn’t have a lot of taste, and was probably Atlantic or even farm-raised, while the freshwater eel (unagi) was delicious and butter-soft. The size of the nigiri is worth mentioning – everything was huge, to the point where I couldn’t fit an entire piece of eel into my mouth. The sushi isn’t cheap – $2.50-$3 per piece for most fish – and the total bill came to about $20 before tip including a green tea.

Amigos Mexican-Spanish Restaurant in West Palm Beach was a real find, a little bit of dumb luck. I came across this list of Latin American restaurants in the area, drove past Amigoes one night, and thought it was worth a shot. It was – turns out they have a huge menu with dishes from all over the Spanish-speaking world, including Spain, Argentina, Colombia, and Cuba, which is where my choice was from – picadillo criollo. The meal ($8.95) included shredded beef that had been sautéed with olives and some mild spices, rice, black beans (served separately as a soup), and maduros. Everything was outstanding; the plantains were particularly so, super-sweet with great caramelization on the crust, while the beef had a nice flavor from the olive oil and the spices. My wife ordered a chili verde burrito ($10.95), which was huge and which she also liked, saying just that it needed more salsa verde on the outside. The guacamole ($3.95 for a side order) was fresh but needed more lime juice. We’ll go back there again before we leave.

Comments

  1. Colombian food is one of the very few things i greatly miss about Miami.

    Your love of plantains speaks well of you.

  2. If you’re coming to the Tampa area, Bella Brava in downtown St. Pete is terrific, and one of Tampa’s quintessential Cuban sandwiches is at the Silver Ring (newly reopened) in Ybor City…

  3. Chris, I won’t be in Tampa on this trip, but I’ll keep those in mind. I’m only doing the east coast of Florida on this particular run.

  4. Maduros are amazing. Much better than tostones, in my opinion. It is frustratingly difficult to get adequately ripe plantains here on the Cape. I usually have to go off Cape to a Whole Foods to get some and even then I have to wait at least a week before they are ripe enough to be nice and sweet.

    On another note, what chains have you gone to? Like many things, the Northeast gets the shaft on chain restaurants. Florida has some good ones like Steak ‘n’ Shake. Any favorites?

  5. Funny you should ask; I was thinking about a post on the few chains I find acceptable, including the One Good Chain: Carrabba’s. I’m a big-time Italian restaurant snob – most places do the most basic things wrong, like putting sugar in their tomtato sauce – but Carrabba’s is legit, and their veal piccata is one of the best I’ve had, chain or non-chain. I’m also generally a sucker for a place that serves fresh bread and olive oil. What can I say – I’m a cheap date.

    I have to admit I like the shakes at Steak’n’Shake, but have never eaten in one. My wife said the burger there was decent but kind of greasy.

    I also like Shells, a Florida-only (I think) chain of seafood restaurants where they actually have fresh fish each day. I never bother with the menu; I just pick something off the daily catch board, it comes with rice and vegetables (also fresh, I might add), and I’m full. Although their key lime pie isn’t bad either.

    Any other chains I should be hitting while I’m down here? First person to say “Applebees” gets perma-banned…

    I’ve got a big post coming on some more restaurants – six more since I last posted – probably posting it over the weekend.

  6. I have never been but my sister and her ex-boyfriend (who has a place in near Miami) both used to rave about Chick-Fil-A. Just don’t ban me if it isn’t actually good.

    Also, on the Steak ‘n’ Shake front, I suggest getting the fries (well done/extra crispy as it always should be) which are done in the shoe string style. In addition, the best thing they have is the spicy chicken sandwich — when you bite in you can actually see the hot sauce. Delicious!

  7. I can’t go to Chick-Fil-A. I’ll have BF5’s “Army” in my head for a week.

    I might have to hit SnS tomorrow before the game at Space Coast Stadium. Doesn’t appear to be much nearby that’s not a chain, and I refuse to eat in spring training press boxes. If I’m going to get fat from this job, I’m going down swinging with better food.

  8. I actually prefer Maggiano’s to Carrabba’s (which is good, I agree), as far as Italian chains go. Worst Italian chain: Johnny Carino’s. It’s a neat looking place, but their sauces are consistently lousy. Bonefish Grill, like Carrabba’s, is a part of the Outback restaurant family, and it’s also very good.

    You can’t go wrong with a Ruth’s Chris steakhouse, either.

    Steak ‘n’ Shake has great shakes and I love their patty melts, but their menu is so astonishingly unhealthy that I’m sure you’d die if you ate there three meals in a row. The also lose serious points with me for “Chili 3-Way,” that horrible Cincinnati chili with cinnamon-sugared chili on top of lukewarm spaghetti. Truly vile.

    There are two Midwestern chains I really like, too. One is Culver’s, a frozen custard and burger chain from Wisconsin. The food at this place is amazing. If your town has a Culver’s and a Steak ‘n’ Shake, don’t even darken the doors of the Steak ‘n’ Shake. Famous Dave’s is a Minnesota barbecue joint that is opening here in St. Pete soon, and it’s excellent, too.

  9. Oh, I meant to add this before, but I went to the Phillies-Red Sox game on Thursday in Clearwater and remembered a story I heard Tim Kurkjian tell on the radio a few years ago. Jim Thome, when with the Phillies, hit a BP home run out “into the middle” of US19, which looks like it’s at least 200 ft beyond the right field wall. I recounted the story to my friends, who insisted that it was impossible, and I’m inclined to agree. I think you were with the Blue Jays at the time, did stories of such a homer reach Dunedin?

    My apologies if you’re trying to completely avoid baseball talk here…

  10. Worst “Italian” chain is the Olive Garden, hands down. Their mere existence offends me to the core.

    I have not heard such a story about a Thome HR … I’m pretty sure that such a homer would defy the laws of physics. Plus didn’t the Phils just move into that park in ’04 or ’05? Their old park wasn’t that close to US-19 (in fact, it was incongruously placed in the middle of a dumpy residential neighborhood).

  11. Good point about the park–but they have been working out there for years–maybe it was during some practice BP, and not before a game at that crappy stadium?

    I remembered another must-visit restaurant in St. Pete–Ted Peters, it’s in Pasadena near St. Pete Beach. It’s been serving smoked mackerel, mullet, and salmon for over 50 years, and it’s also got terrific cheeseburgers and hot German potato salad…

  12. As far as chains, Maggiano’s is actually owned by the Chicago restaurant company Lettuc Entertain You, and most of their concepts are pretty strong, in particular, their execution of Joe’s Stone crab from Miami Beach (now Joe’s Seafood, Prime steaks and Stone Crab) is phenomenal. It’s in Vegas and Chicago and I think 1 or 2 other cities — how many outlets makes a chain? Also, as far as BBQ chains, the only one I’ve ever been at that’s really good is called Lucille’s, at the moment only in California and one in Henderson, NV, with Arizona the next expansion. Famous Dave’s is OK but nothing to write home about. Finally, there are some BBQ shacks in the LA area, inlcuding a real good one on Lincoln in Marina Del Rey called B-B-Q Co. (formerly Benny’s BBQ).