Top Chef S9E7.

Recapping another episode of Top Chef: Waterworks…

* Quickfire: This episode of Top Chef did not include a Quickfire, replacing it with an infomercial for some brand of tequila.

* I don’t like tequila – you know my spirit of choice (great book, by the way) – although I use agave nectar every morning in my tea, so it’s not the plant; I get a lot of smoke flavor from tequilas but no brightness to balance it out, although I’ve never had a fine sipping tequila like the 1942 used in this episode. Given the choice, I’d go for bourbon (like Ed), which at least has some sweeter notes to balance the char. So I don’t envy the chefs.

* Ty may have won, but Chris C.’s dish – raw oyster with tequila tapioca pearl and sea salt air – screamed “final three” to me. He’s going to push the envelope every time out, and he has the execution skills to pull it off. But what the hell is sea salt air? “Hey, I put some air around the dish for you” (with magical hand movements). Or maybe he bought it from this guy.

* Did Sarah put tequila in the risotto, in place of the wine? I may have missed that, but I would understand the criticism of the pairing in that case. Otherwise, I’m with Hugh on Tim Love’s views on an essential Italian dish.

* Elimination challenge: Working in teams of two, cook an assigned game meat for a table of judges and chefs who specialize in cooking game. I’ve had quail and duck, but don’t think I’ve had any of the others (venison, boar, elk, squab a.k.a. pigeon). Slightly surprised there was no rabbit, but perhaps that’s not game enough?

* Yeah, I’m sure that’s a total coincidence that Heather and Beverly were paired up. I understand that some drama is necessary given the format, but there’s organic drama (just from the pressure of the competition) and then there’s artificial drama (from putting the mildly racist chef with no self-awareness on a team with the emotional Asian chef). Someone pointed out on Twitter that other chefs should have stepped up to confront Heather over her bullying, but other than one attempt by Grayson, no one really did. I understand that confrontation can have its costs, but the long-term costs of doing nothing are higher – especially if you eventually have to work with her.

* That said, the whole format – where the entire losing team goes home, regardless of who contributed what to the dish – sucked. Sending Nyesha home because she didn’t check on Dakota seems awfully weak, especially since we’re watching another team with one chef trying to micromanage the hell out of the other.

* Also, was it just me or was there a huge disconnect between the comments about the venison during the meal and Tom’s comments at judges’ table? Tom called it “a little undercooked,” and one of the guest chef-diners said it was “a little blue.” At judges’ table, Tom said it was severely undercooked. I don’t know which was right, or if this was editing weirdness, but the inconsistency was shocking, and all of their other comments about Dakota and Nyesha’s dish were positive. Hugh wrote it was “UNDERDONE” in his blog, so perhaps the diners’ comments were off.

* Back to Heather – this season’s official Top Chef Villain™ – does she understand that Asia is a continent with maybe a hundred different cuisines? She keeps using “Asian” as if Asia is a small city outside Rome. Even within east Asia there are enormous differences between cuisines, and if she’s had any kind of formal culinary education, she should be aware of that. She reminds me of my grandparents’ generation, where “Asian” cuisine meant Chinese take-out, and sushi or pad thai were simply unheard of. Meanwhile, Beverly tells an even sadder backstory than Whitney’s, one equally deserving of praise for her ability to overcome it.

* Back to Grayson again – nice to see someone finally acknowledge that abasing yourself in front of the judges doesn’t work. Stand behind your dish. Admitting failure before the judges is just inviting them to send you home.

* LCK: First time this really felt necessary, since Nyesha was ousted under dubious (in my view, at least) circumstances. And it seemed like she cleaned up, despite being thrown by the use of cactus in the challenge. I think Nyesha could go on some kind of run here and make a legitimate difference whenever she’s allowed to re-enter the competition.

* Final three: Still Paul and Chris C. and then a big dropoff to everyone else. I had Nyesha in the third spot, but with her out I think it’s Edward over Lindsay to round out the top three. I wouldn’t exclude Heather here just for her personality, but I think her carping over “Asian” cuisine says something about her limitations as a chef, and limited chefs typically don’t win on this show.

Comments

  1. Keith, Nyesha was recently featured on a Food Network show called “Chef Hunters” which documented the process that got her hired at Wilshire. You could tell the staff really responded well to her on her day running the restaurant, the owners and investors really liked her and the amuse she whipped up. The one thing that looked iffy? She wasn’t checking all the food that went out and a bunch of one dish went out undercooked. She did get the job and she was clearly a better chef and boss than the other guy, but a wee bit of over-trust is a theme for her apparently.

  2. Are probe thermometers (or Thermapens) considered verboten for professional chefs? Seems to me it would solve a lot of doneness issues on the show.

  3. Not to step too far out on a limb to defend Heather. I look at her complaints about Asian cooking the same way we we roll our eyes with Jamie always using Scallops. A Top Chef should be able to/forced to show some sort of mastery of multiple cuisines to win…

    Overall, I can’t stand double eliminations or really any elimination on Top Chef that some how makes it harder for the contestant to get judged only on how well they can cook their food. It is even more frustrating when the Final 3 makes the contestant go the entire show winning and then be forced to work with someone that they are supposedly better than (a previously knocked off contestant). Just let them cook good food and go from there.

  4. I hate to see double eliminations as it always seems like someone who deserves to stay gets kicked off early — as is the case with Nyesha.

    Going based strictly off the comments that were made during the dinner, I thought for sure Beverly and Heather were gone, but I guess that would make too much sense.

    I actually really like Grayson, I thought she was good from the get-go. I found it funny that she completely interrupted Chris J. to stop him from completely blowing it for them. I would have been more upset if she went home because of his stupidity than I as that Nyesha did for Dakota’s mistake.

    I agree about Paul and Chris C being the top two, but I think I’d actually take Grayson over the rest with Ty-Lor in a close fourth.

  5. I don’t think she’s a strong enough chef to win, but Grayson is by far my favorite person on the show. Just seems to have a great attitude about everything. Loved her on this episode, from trying to stand up to Heather to trying to keep Chris Jones from getting them sent home.

    I think fan favorite is already pretty much a two-person race between her and Chris C.

  6. @Myk – What is “Asian” food? Is is like “European” food?

  7. Not sure if you have seen the show yet but Nyesha was also on Chef Hunter. It has aired about four times and it is decent. She was on the first episode. I believe it is on Food Network, which typically re-airs its shows all the time.

    I was thinking Nyesha was a favorite as well given her pedigree. I also hope she makes a good run through the 2nd chance period.

  8. My main problem with this season, which has been more than underwhelming, has been the production/editing. You pointed out the disparity in Colicchio’s opinion of the underdone meat at the dining table against the one he had at judges table. I don’t know if some producer told him to exaggerate his opinion or he did it of his own volition, but he did the same thing with Chris C.’s dessert after the progressive dinner. The quality of it seemed fine, there were just too many things on the plate (a result of his acquiescing those idiot Stepford Wives, another idiotic decision by this season’s producers). But even then Colicchio’s criticism seemed contrived. And Hugh has basically been his lackey, agreeing with whatever issue Tom takes with the food. I might be alone here, but Colicchio has struck me as disingenuous this season. I just wish they’d wise up and pay Bourdain whatever he wanted to be a judge.

    My other issue with the season is that they keep beating us over the head with the fact that they’re in Texas. The common criticism of this entire SERIES is that chefs have to be well-rounded, but what does that say about the show when everything they cook seems to be Texas-themed. I understand Texas has a lot of cultural diversity, but wouldn’t we have a better idea of who the more well-rounded chef is if they just rotated the show among San Francisco, Vegas, and New York?

    Unrelated: Klaw, just finished “Ballad of the Whiskey Robber” per your suggestion. Great read. Thanks.

  9. This season has been terribly underwhelming, both talent-wise and production-wise. I was originally excited to watch the Moto boys from Chicago, but Chris J. Seems more interested in recreating Cantu’s dishes than cooking from his heart.

  10. Keith,
    When I couldn’t view your new website setup, despite trying to on Firefox, Chrome, and Safari, I decided it was time to upgrade my laptop.
    First site visited? Yours, right now.

    What can I say, I’m a Klaw fanboy!

    Happy Holidays!