Top Chef, S13E15.

So, Jeremy won more challenges than anyone else this season? I wouldn’t have guessed that, other than that as the only contestant left who appeared in every episode he’s had more opportunities. I feel like I remember his failures (restaurant wars, hot chicks taco stand) more than I remember his successes.

* Tom is going to cook a meal for Jeremy and Amar, which he says the first meal he’s cooking on Top Chef … except didn’t he cook a meal in eight minutes once, determining the length of a quickfire?

* Still, he’s making a multi-course meal including fresh handmade pasta, so I don’t think the guys have any complaints here. He makes crab and sea urchin with finger limes (not actually limes or even citrus, but the source of “lime caviar”) for the first course. Squab, honey-glazed onions, turnips, smoked peaches for the second. Potato agnolotti with leeks and caviar for the third. Wagyu beef, chanterelle and lobster mushrooms, aged soy bordelaise, shishito peppers for the fourth. I’m full just watching this.

* He says the meal is about ingredients that get him really excited, and wants the chefs to think about the ingredients that do the same for them. This got me thinking about what ingredients I might choose; I’d pick some number from duck legs (skin included, of course), peaches, chocolate, wild mushrooms, short ribs, or eggs. I’d have said pie, but that doesn’t scale well if they’re asked to cook for 100 people.

* Padma does not age. Someone should look into this.

* All the chefs are in the house, so the two remaining contestants draft their sous chefs. Amar takes Kwame, Jeremy takes Carl, Amar takes Marjorie (thinking about the dessert course), Jeremy takes Angie (saying she’s the fastest prep cook). The challenge: Create a four-course meal highlighting four specific ingredients, one per course, of their choice. Serving at craftsteak in MGM, which is spectacular if you haven’t been – they serve the short rib dish that made me realize how much I love short ribs after years of thinking I didn’t like them.

* In walk their mentors, Charlie Palmer and Jean-Georges Vongerichten. JGV says he sees himself in Jeremy, which is a little weird given Jeremy’s laid-back, dudebro personality. The mentors are here to help prep and cook as sous-chefs, but will sit with the judges for service.

* So we get to see Palmer and JGV walking through Whole Foods. No big deal, I’m sure they do this all the time.

* Jeremy declines JGV’s advice on the foie gras duo. This doesn’t seem like a good thing.

* Palmer, while doing line cook work, says, “No one’s too good to do anything.” He also says there’s a difference between being confident in what you do and being a complete asshole, and Amar had crossed the line back in their time together.

* Amar’s making risotto! This also doesn’t seem like a good thing.

* I would really watch a five-minute online clip of Charlie Palmer trimming (the word is “frenching,” unfortunately) that rack of lamb.

* Amar says his style is fewer elements, better flavors, less explanation, as compared to Jeremy’s more technical and more complex approach. I happen to like both when I’m eating out, but recognize that they’re going to come from very different places.

* Amar admits he’s making sashimi after giving Jeremy shit over multiple crudos because “they always win.”

* First course: Jeremy’s dish is foie gras two ways (one warm, one cold), with chili, passion fruit, and marshmallows. Amar’s is seared tuna tataki with habanero coconut dressing, compressed pineapple, toasted peanuts, and crispy rice.

* The chefs’ parents and siblings are there as a surprise. Sad to see how badly diabetes has debilitated Jeremy’s mom, and Amar’s only got his mother and brother there as his father passed away a few years ago.

* Jeremy’s two-day foie gras torchon worked, as did his duo overall. Go figure – maybe he’s good at this whole cheffing thing?

* It seems like some of the judges/diners think Amar’s dish is a little too spicy? I would think this plays right to Padma’s palate. You hear more complaints on this show about dishes that aren’t spicy enough.

* Jeremy’s fish fillets didn’t all cook through, leading to a brief panic in the kitchen. I want to know why he made the fish look like some cheap St. Patrick’s Day entree.

* Second course: Jeremy’s branzino, slow-cooked with an herbal lime vinaigrette, lime zest, squash, and cherry tomatoes. Amar made an uni risotto with butter poached lobster, jicama, finger limes, and shellfish froth.

* Dominique Crenn (the French-born executive chef of San Francisco’s Atelier Crenn and Petit Crenn) loves the risotto, and Tom says everything in it is perfect, which, given the history of risotto on Top Chef, is some pretty high praise. Reading between the lines of the comments on Jeremy’s dish, though, it seems like his green sauce overshadowed the fish. It looks like someone threw up a shamrock shake on the plate.

* Jeremy waited too long to fire the duck for the third course. Says it’s “duck hell right now,” and has no time to let it rest. Meanwhile, we hear Marjorie say to Amar that she thinks the lamb needs “two more minutes,” but he says it’s perfect even though it’s bleating as he slices it.

* Third: Amar’s plate is harissa-rubbed lamb racks with braised lamb pastilla (a Moroccan-Andalusian kind of meat pie), date-ginger puree, and a yogurt harissa emulsion. Jeremy made duck with roasted maitake mushrooms, smoked chili, buttermilk, and lemon.

* Amar’s lamb is indeed a little undercooked. Padma loves the lamb jus, which Charlie says he had a hand in making, although I thought he was making a “you lika the juice” joke. Dominique says the lamb is “poorly undercooked,” which sounds even worse when said with a French accent. Jeremy’s duck is definitely undercooked. There’s just raw meat everywhere.

* Does Tom look stressed describing these two dishes? He seems almost pained at how close the contest is so far.

* Amar’s mocking all of Jeremy’s “spears” and “cones” … he says that’s all been done before, and he wants to make dishes that are amazing, not interesting. It seems to me like Jeremy’s style of cooking generates a ton of waste, especially plastic, which really should be a thing of the past.

* Fourth and final course: Amar made a coconut financier, mango sorbet, passion fruit curd, tropical fruit salard, brulée meringue, and lime zest. Jeremy made a cheese course, a ricotta and mozzarella cheese cylinder with spiced fig jam, pumpernickel toast, and honey “bubble.” There’s no question I’d want to eat Amar’s dish rather than Jeremy’s.

* Blais says Jeremy’s technique led the dish, not the ignredients. Emeril calls it “intellectual.” I wouldn’t think that was a compliment, although he seems to mean it that way.

* Amar’s financier is a little dense, but everyone loves the flavors. A financier is a small sponge cake, like a madeleine but made with brown butter, lifted with an egg white foam, and cooked till brown around the edges; it’s often made with almond flour but I think Amar may have used coconut flour here, which could explain the change in texture.

* Blais asks Amar if the tataki was “too safe” a dish for the finals. Tom praises Jeremy’s torchon. In the second courses, Jeremy’s dish needed more lemon, and the tomatoes were the star ingredient … which should be a point against him, right?

* Amar gets big praise for making a risotto. Gail says it’s the best risotto they’ve had on TC in “many, many seasons.” Has anyone else made a truly successful risotto on Top Chef? Or won a challenge with one?

* Jeremy says he was going for med-rare to medium with his duck, but then tries to dance around the criticism that it was short or rare. Just acknowledge the mistake up front, dude. Amar’s lamb was rare to undercooked, when he wanted rare to med-rare, but at least he owns it right away. Both dishes were badly cooked meat surrounded by other great elements.

* Amar’s dessert had great flavors, but the financier was dense; Blais says the name might have been the problem because everyone expected the light texture of a financier. Jeremy’s cheese log was great, but the honey bubble was a failure. I’m still trying to fathom what a mozzarella cheese “log” would taste like but keep imagining that awful string cheese they sell in individually-wrapped landfill fodder.

* Padma says they still haven’t decided on the winner, by which she probably means Tom hasn’t decided.

* They’re praising Jeremy’s technique and details, but seem to like Amar’s flavors more. Padma even says it specifically – one chef’s meal was technique-forward, the other’s was flavor-forward. Technique is great, but don’t you have to love the food too?

* Jeremy says off-camera, “Top Chef is not about the money to me.” Kind of the wrong/privileged thing to say, especially when your opponent came from a third world country and has made himself into a successful chef from meager beginnings.

* The winner of $125,000 and the title of Top Chef is … Jeremy. “No fucking way.” You tell ’em, dudebro.

* This is the first time since I started watching the show that I can say I’m disappointed in an outcome. We don’t taste the food, so I don’t know who actually deserved to win, but I can’t escape the feeling that we’ve seen Jeremy’s kind of food on this show before, many times in fact. I don’t think he had a dish, even a winning dish, all season that made me say “I’d want to make that,” or even “That gives me a great idea.” (Actually the best dish all season from that perspective was Karen’s Asian steak salad from Restaurant Wars, which I made for dinner yet again a few hours before this show aired.) The chefs who impressed early in the season were long gone by the finale, and while Amar makes the food you’d be more likely to want to eat, the judges appear to have gone with the fancier techniques. They’re not wrong – how could I say they’re wrong when I didn’t eat the food! – but it’s not the outcome I wanted, to say the least.

* Gail gives Amar a kiss on each cheek, and he says, “Finally! I’ve been waiting all season for this.” Well, it’s a decent consolation prize for losing $125 grand, I guess.

Comments

  1. Just finished watching Thursday’s finale and went straight to your blog for the recap. I had to look this up, but Antonia made a winning risotto towards the end of Top Chef All-Stars (Season 8). It was that emotional episode where they were at Ellis Island and had cook a dish honoring their ancestry for the judges and family members. A quick google search shows some video on the Top Chef website of Rick Moonen cooking Antonia’s winning dish. I had never seen this before.

    http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/season-8/videos/antonia-lofasos-braised-veal-with-risotto

    BTW, I miss the Top Chef blogs by Tom. He hasn’t contributed in the last couple of seasons – it’s mostly Gale or Richard now.

    http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/blogs

    • Thanks – I still don’t even remember that one even though I was already watching that season.

  2. Jeremy is such an uninspiring winner. He regained his momentum in the Hubert Keller challenge; but by then the weaker parts of his personality came to the forefront and made it difficult to root for him.

    Ultimately, viewers get persuaded by the narrative-edits and the dishes that appeal to us by viewing them — and Jeremy just didn’t present as someone worth my interest on either scale.

  3. I felt like so many of these chefs this season got eliminated before they got to a challenge the would have really highlighted their strengths. I really wanted to see Karen in the wok quickfire. I wanted to see Jason researching obscure recipes from Renaissance Italy. I even would have found it amusing to see Philip making artisanal toast. Finally, I just wanted to see Marjorie in the final. I did feel that no one messed up badly on a single course in the finals, and both chefs mishandled their main protein, so it ended up coming down to the fact that the judges liked Jeremy’s first and fourth course best, over Amar’s their course, and the third course seemed like a wash. By the way, Keith, if you haven’t been to Meyers + Chang, where Karen works, it is really great.

  4. That tube of mozzarella that Jeremy made was, I believe, a thin skin of mozz surrounding a core of ricotta. At one point he refers to it as “burrata,” though, which is confusing because burrata isn’t mozzarella stuffed with ricotta, either.

    In any case, it wasn’t just mozzarella. There was ricotta there too.

    • Just re-read saw that you mentioned the ricotta. Anyway, who knows what that thing was like.

  5. I did a double take at the beginning as well when Jeremy said he had won the most challenges. As you said, he did nothing memorable during the season.

    I was surprised that Charlie Palmer was chosen to assist Amar considering their history. They seemed to be civil with each other, but Palmer’s comments seemed to show there was still some tension. (And I’m not trying to imply he didn’t try his best to help Amar. Palmer did a great job with the lamb)

    Finally, going by the comments on the Risotto, and since the other courses seemed to be a wash, I thought Amar was going to win. I had grown tired of Jeremy’s atti-dude and his ‘fuck yeah’ after every challenge. I guess his food tasted better than I thought. One criticism of the show has been it doesn’t reward those chefs who take on a challenge. Maybe the judges thought the food was close enough that they wanted to reward Jeremy for taking on challenging dishes or techniques? I’m not experienced enough to know if that was the case or not.

    PS-Both Gail and Padma looked great this season.

  6. Keith, thanks for the write-ups this year – always enjoy reading them (along with the rest of your work).

    My thoughts, in no particular order:

    *I was rooting for Amar but came around a bit on Jeremy (early on, really didn’t think he was long for the contest). That said, felt like the final was mostly even and thought/hoped Amar’s risotto put him over the top. His cooking, for me, was more appealing overall.

    *Felt like the Charlie Palmer thing was a little weird.

    *Twice Angie was taken as a partner for a big challenge – think her talents were either underrepresented throughout or (more likely) she needs some time and experience for her skills to mature. Either way, I probably haven’t given her as much credit as her ability warranted.

    *Wonder if things may have been different had the last challenge not involved the whole showmanship bit. This season seemed (thankfully) lighter on non-cooking challenges but that one bothered me. Overall, wish they’d take the finale back to the original location and/or three chefs vs. just two.

  7. I thought Jeremy excelled in challenges where he was able to show off, fine dining challenges with plenty of time to conceive and properly develop his dishes. He really struggled with more casual dishes, and he was a disaster in Restaurant Wars, and probably could have been eliminated then. But once he made the final 4, I thought he was the clear favorite, since the finals are always about fine dining.

    I did think it was a weird thing that they brought Palmer back. He’s definitely Amar’s mentor, and Amar does like to talk about his past and his mentors, but it seemed to be a bonus for Jeremy while it was added stress for Amar because of his strained relationship with Palmer.

    I think the final challenge came down to Jeremy winning on 3 of the 4 courses. He clearly won the 1st course. Foie Gras is not my thing, but what he did seemed really impressive and well-liked, while Amar’s was good but nothing special. Amar won course 2, no question. Jeremy won the dessert course. The honey thing didn’t work out, but the rest seemed to go over really well, while Amar’s main dessert component wasn’t great. If Amar had cooked that lamb perfectly, he probably would have won, but with both proteins undercooked, Jeremy’s seemed like the better dish overall. So Jeremy wins, and while we may think he’s kind of a douche, it seems like the right call.

    • But once he made the final 4, I thought he was the clear favorite, since the finals are always about fine dining.

      Excellent point, but I can’t say I like it that way. Fine dining isn’t the only dining, and there can be innovation and experimentation in other cuisines too.

      I also think that the editing made it seem like the third courses were quite even, maybe even slightly tilted towards Amar. We got all this praise of the jus, but didn’t see the same kind of praise of the secondary elements of Jeremy’s duck plate.

  8. So I actually ate dinner at Amer’s restaurant Broadway last night. It was everything I was expecting and hoping for after watching this season of TC. He stays true to his theory about being flavor forward over technique. This isn’t to say that his preparations were unskilled or lacked aesthetics but the flavors were the stars. I had his bone marrow app and lamb shank (the star of the meal) and the wife had the duck confit and lemon and pepper pasta with lamb. All of the dishes were packed with flavor and perfectly prepared. I would definitely recommend if you’re in the area. He also offers a tasting menu/chefs table, which I would do when I go again.

    As far as the episode of TC, I was disappointed as well. In the end, shouldn’t the best food win, and from the comments it seems like that didn’t happen.

  9. Based on the comments during tasting and judging, I really thought it could either way. Given the results, I’m really surprised they left Padma’s “One chef did a technique forward dinner and one did flavor forward” comment in; it seems like having that and then picking Jeremy says they’re more concerned with technique rather than flavor, which might not be what the show wants out there.

    All told, I don’t think this was a bad season, but I don’t think it was particularly great either. I was happy to see some of the more blatant product placement (they didn’t need to hop in the Toyota whatever to get everywhere, nor did they need to cook anything in Reynolds products), and I really liked the Restaurant Wars tweak, letting everyone have a chance at either front of house or expediter.

  10. Keith, I forgot to thank you for the recaps all season. They definitely added to the Top Chef viewing experience!

    • Glad you enjoy them. I truly do write them just for you guys, and for the conversation we have afterwards. There were definitely points in this season where I was wondering if I should bail on the show, because it seemed like the show had just flattened out – not bad, just not as fun as it used to be – but I kept these posts going because I know you guys like to read them and discuss them afterwards. Plus I often learn stuff from all of your comments.

  11. I’m not sure if you’ve always written this way or I’m just now noticing it, but I really enjoy the socially conscious tone of your posts. You’ve got me thinking about the way I purchase food and ways to tweak things to generate less waste.

    Jeremy had a quote earlier this season that rubbed me the wrong way, and not the hot chicks one, although that wasn’t a high point. He was talking about his daughter and said something to the extent of him telling her it’s not worth doing something if you weren’t going to be the best. I felt bad for her, because most people aren’t the best at everything they do, and my god does it generate anxiety if you hold yourself to that standard all the time.

    • Another reader pointed that out on Twitter. Second-best is not first loser. Second best is fucking awesome.

  12. First, thanks for your reviews. I’ve read various Top Chef blogs, but yours is the only one I’ve returned to season after season.

    Like you said, we didn’t taste the food, but it seems to me, if the judges take into consideration each chef’s entire season work. wouldn’t Amar win? Leaving it all to one meal seems to make the entire season like the NBA regular season. Just make it to the playoffs.

    And yes, your recommendation for MGM’s Craftsteak is a must. It’s in my Top 5 meals of all time (a tasting menu of sorts), which also include tasting menu L’Ateleir de Joel Robuchon and omakase at Abriya Raku.

    • Really, on L’Atelier? Perhaps it was the anxiety of one of my dining companions, but I thought the service was rough: they lost our reservation (I had to play them the voicemail confirmation to get in). We were sat at the bar overlooking the kitchen, and basically ignored for most of the even. The tasting menu itself was fine, with the foie gras and cherries a standout and the squab underseasoned. Goes without saying the price was unjustifiable. Wouldn’t recommend, myself.

    • @TC yes L’Atelier. I agree price was off the charts. But my service was excellent and the food was outstanding. I was there 4 or 5 years ago, so maybe it’s gone down a bit. I was there with a group of friends who are mostly foodies so we enjoyed it. It’s definitely a one-time thing. I might go back for a special occassion, but just becuase “I’m in Vegas”.

  13. Three things:

    1) I mentioned to my wife that I wouldn’t be surprised if the final meal wasn’t dead even, and they gave it to Jeremy because at the end of the day, he never made the worst meal in any challenge. Sure, Amar lost in a quickfire, but if everything else was really equal, you give it to the guy who never had to go to LCK. The fact that this was so close legitimizes LCK, while maintaining the premium one gets for never having “lost”.

    2) I could have done without the little speeches before the final decision. Both chefs said they wanted to win to validate everything they’d done to that point. Jeremy said it made all the time away from his kids worth it. Amar said something essentially similar. Those speeches really fell flat for me. Would all the time away from his kids been for nothing if Jeremy had lost? Really? It came off as “here’s my sob story so vote for me”. I don’t blame the chefs. I’m sure they were encouraged to make some sort of non-food based appeal, but it left me cold. The same thing happens on every Chopped episode, but I hold Top Chef to a higher standard.

    3) The money is great, and maybe it’s because I’m not a super foodie, but the way they play up the Food & Wine prizes (the feature and the spot in Aspen, which I’m sure are great) seems a bit outdated. Top Chef is enough of “thing” that the exposure they get from the show has to be bigger than the exposure they get from Food & Wine. I went to Beverly Kim’s Parachute a few months ago, and I wanted to go because I’d seen her on Top Chef and it’s in my neighborhood. I don’t really care what magazine’s she’s been in.

    Also, hey Keith. Been a while, but I’ve been reading the recaps.

  14. Did I miss something?

    I admit I didn’t watch a bunch of episodes, but I did read Keith’s recaps – so, why was the California season finale set in Las Vegas? Lame.

    And, it seemed to me there was a good story to be told about Charlie Palmer and Amar’s falling out. It sounded like Amar was an absolute dick when he left Palmer’s Orange County restaurant. TC puts them back together and there’s no apology? No on-screen reconciliation?

    Anyway, I think I’m out on cooking competition shows. I just don’t see much point any more in watching talented chefs perform in artificial situations. I get much more enjoyment watching Mind of the Chef, Chef’s Table, Chef’s Night Out……

    Keith, thanks for your excellent TC recaps and if you ever need restaurant recs for San Diego (other than J&I) I have a bunch of them.

    • The finals are always set in a different location. Last season was in Boston, but the finals were in Mexico. The season before that was in New Orleans, but the finals in Hawaii. They’ve done Vegas a couple times before, so it wasn’t the most inspired choice.

    • The Futures Game is in SD this year so I’m absolutely looking for suggestions. I plan to hit The Crack Shack, the new place from Blais & co. next door to J&I.

    • Keith, The Crack Shack is solid. Excellent fried chicken in various forms.

      I think Trey Forshee is the best chef in town. His trio of restaurants at Georges at the Cove are excellent. The fine dining option, Geoges California Modern, is a great dining experience. The Ocean Terrace has a limited menu, but a million dollar view. Forshee also recently opened a casual Mexican restaurant called Galaxy Taco in La Jolla Shores and like everything else he has done, it’s fantastic.

      Javier Plascencia (guest judge this year) opened Bracero last year and it might be the hardest dinner reservation in town to get. It’s a good representation of the cuisine coming out of northern Baja. I have yet to have dinner there, but I love their lunch menu. If you can swing it, Placencia’s Tijuana restaurant, Misíon 19 might be the best restaurant in the region.

      If you need a place near the ballpark, I like Puestos a lot. Nothing unique – elevated tacos. Just solid tasty food.

      If you drink beer, seek out beers from the breweries, Modern Times and Societe. They do not have wide distribution outside of So Cal, but they standout in a town with 120 brew houses.

  15. I have a reservation at Bracero in a couple of weeks that I am really looking forward to. Hoping it is as good as you say Chip. Klaw I will report back my thoughts…

    • Matt, while I haven’t had dinner at Bracero, I have had many of the dishes at JP’s other restaurants (Misíon 19, Finca Altozano). I can recommend the carrot aguachile, grilled octopus, and the bone marrow sopes.

  16. While I’m not crazy about Jeremy winning, I wouldn’t go as far as Keith did. For me that’s still Nicholas (Season 11) who should have been eliminated a few times, but had immunity and then had that very awkward finale where it was edited so that Tom ‘stole the election’ for him.

    I think this season was more of a let down by the end, there appeared to be some serious talent this year, but they all seemingly self-destructed and thus you have Jeremy being the last man/woman standing. (Counter point: unlike three of the last four seasons there wasn’t one or two dominate chefs (Paul, Kristen (no disrespect to Brooke), Gregory/Mei).

    Last thing, I didn’t realize how much Isaac was carrying this season until this week where there was no Isaac.

  17. Based on judge comments and our prejudices, my wife and I both thought Amar would win. This season kind of lost steam for me, and I even forgot I had DVR’d the finals until last night.

    That honey bubble in Jeremy’s dessert was made using reverse spherification. It’s a cool, easy technique to put a thin membrane around a liquid, usally by adding calcium lacate gluconate to the liquid and dolloping it into a bath of sodium alginate. A colleague and I helped his 10 year old daughter do a science project examining the effects of different acids and different counterions on the formation of the membranes. It was pretty fun stuff!

  18. Based on the way the episode was edited I thought for sure Amar was going to be the winner.

    Going forward I wonder how much longer Top Chef is going to last. I hope the main players (mostly Tom and Padma) aren’t getting burned out, because Top Chef is really the only food related show on tv that I enjoy watching.

  19. I was pretty meh about the finale, which featured my least-desired combination of the final four (literally, any other two person combo would have been preferable to this), so even though I’m not exactly thrilled by Jeremy’s win, I have a hard time working up the ire about it that I did for, say, Nicholas.

    Other than that, I just wanted to join the chorus of thank yous, Keith, for these recaps, which have quickly become my favorite thing about the show (I usually wait to read them with lunch on a Monday or Tuesday, just to draw out the experience) and also echo Nora’s appreciation of the more socially conscious aspects of your writing, as you’ve also made me rethink and re-examine some of my purchasing/cooking/eating habits as well.

  20. The biggest surprise for me in the WTF decision – that even Mr. Technique Blais sounded like he was voting for Amar.

    Anyhow, I’m happy that Isaac won Fan Favorite and I think it’s super cool that the two finalists for FF were an atheist and a lesbian. Now that’s an open-minded fan base!

  21. As a huge Top Chef fan, I am so disappointed that our visit to craftsteak in Vegas was so mediocre.

    Perhaps we ordered wrong, but not one of our four meals was out-of-the-ordinary (and the screwed up our reservation).

    🙁