Top Chef, S12E11.

My take on the Evan Gattis trade is up for Insiders, and I held a slightly briefer-than-normal Klawchat today.

Top Chef logoSo, in the opener, did George just out Gregory? I have no idea if Gregory was open about his sexual orientation or not, but that was kind of out of nowhere. So, um, I hope that was okay. (EDIT: I missed Gregory’s comments earlier in the season on this, so I guess it was all fine.)

* Elimination challenge: Ashley Christensen from Raleigh! Love her stuff. Joule is my breakfast spot any time I’m in Raleigh. Beasley’s fried chicken is wonderful, and my one meal at Poole’s Diner was spectacular too. Anyway, there’s no quickfire, so I kind of buried the lede there because I got excited.

* The chefs head to Island Creek Oyster Farm in Duxbury to dredge for oysters, dig for clams, and forage for seaweed, after which they’ll get their choice of some other premium shellfish, about as fresh as it can possibly be. Each chef is responsible for one app and one entr&ee. The chefs get sous-chefs from back home – Melissa’s Mom, Gregory’s sister, George’s dad, Mei’s brother – and the sous have to make the appetizers without the chefs touching the food. On the bright side, there’s no elimination this week; the winner gets a bye to the final three, which will be held in Mexico.

* George’s dad owns a diner. Color me shocked.

* Melissa’s mom is an aerospace engineer, which is kind of awesome, since I don’t think you saw many women in her field when she likely first entered the workforce.

* Mei says her brother can’t cook and just hopes he just takes direction well. When she first found out that her brother (Harly) had to do all the cooking for the appetizer, she made a face my daughter makes that’s usually followed by some sort of howl.

* Right on cue, Harly tries to operate the crank to pull up the net with which they dredge the oysters (via a pulley), and snaps the handle clean off. Maybe that was rigged to come off before he even got on the boat?

* On the pier where the chefs get to choose their other shellfish is a giant bin of surf clams. If you’ve ever had true fried clam strips, then you’ve probably had surf clams, specifically the pseudopod (sometimes called its “tongue”), a long appendage that can be sliced thinly and fried, and is often followed by ice cream served with a shortbread cookie.

* George calls his dad Mr. Tony, and the guy talks like he’s right off the boat even though it sounds like he’s been in the U.S. for thirty or forty years. He sold his diner and invested the proceeds in George’s restaurant, which is Dad of the Year material in my book.

* Mei’s brother seems like a stoner. Nothing fazes him, even her insulting him right in front of the camera in the confessional.

* Not one “Glou-chester?” Come on. That’s like sport for locals up there. Wor-chester, glow-chester, Need-ham … it’s a minefield for people who believe English should be pronounced the way it’s written.

* Melissa’s mom says when Melissa was a kid there was “no sesame street, always cooking show, that’s not a normal child!” Granted, I watched Sesame Street, but I have no problem with this either.

* Meanwhile, Melissa reveals that her dad (her parents are divorced) has never come to any of her restaurants and won’t involve himself in her life – won’t accept that she’s gay or that she’s chosen cooking as a career. What kind of father does this to his child?

* Mei says she doesn’t have her parents’ approval either; it would be nice, but she doesn’t need it. Again, why wouldn’t they give it to her? It’s not like she’s cooking meth for a living.

* Melissa wrote out a long page of detailed instructions – but isn’t that what an engineer would want? That’s what my dad would want, and that’s generally how any instructions I get from him (e.g., directions to any place, even if I’ve been there before) look.

* Gregory not playing it safe, tons of umami rather than acids and herbs.

* Mr. Tony at least knows his way around the food. Melissa’s mom has made Chinese custards before. The siblings don’t have any real cooking experience, though, which may put Gregory and Mei at a slight disadvantage.

* Tom walks into the kitchen and right off says to Mei, “do you realize your brother is burning his mushrooms?” Maybe he knows Harly is useless with a knife.

* Mr. Tony is shucking oysters, which definitely isn’t something a novice cook would know how to do. (I’ve never done it, since my wife is allergic to shellfish and I don’t bring any mollusks in the house.)

* When it’s all said and done, though, Harly seems to be a quick study and picks up the pace, plating raw oysters on beds of salt as he prepares to serve.

* In come the diner-judges … and Blais is back! The table is replete with high-end/celebrity chefs – Adam Evans from the Optimist in Atlanta, Top Chef Masters participant (and purslane enthusiast) Kerry Heffernan, Ashley Christensen, and seafood maven Rick Moonen.

* Mei has Harly pouring sauce tableside, rather temeritous of her given how much she was crushing his ignorance about two hours previously.

* Rick praises Harly’s shucking of the oysters, so go figure.

* Harly’s appetizer is a raw oyster with soy-yuzu vinaigrette, radish, and I think seaweed. When asked to explain his technique, Harly explains in detail: “I had to grate a lot of stuff.” Katsuji immediately hires Harly to work in his restaurant.

* Mei’s entrée is surf clam and lobster in tomato-coconut broth with zucchini ribbons and seaweed. The surf clam is raw, the lobster cooked, and she gets raves all around, especially for the surf clam … but did she really do anything with it, or just pick the right ingredient?

* Gregory takes his eyes off his halibut while helping Jessica plate, and as a result the halibut overcooks just enough that he realizes it’s going to cost him points. Nothing you can do at that point but suck it up.

* Jessica’s starter is a tomato-watermelon soup with pickled cucumber and lightly sauteed shrimp. Blais says watermelon soup could go very wrong and end up like a smoothie, but this didn’t.

* Gregory’s halibut comes with oysters, mussels, and creamy dashi. Tom immediately seems unhappy. Kerry asks if Gregory is happy with how it’s cooked, which no judge ever asks when the item in question was cooked perfectly, so Gregory’s screwed.

* Melissa poaches her lobster in buerre monté, a form of butter that is liquified without losing the emulsion that would break down if you just melted the butter straight-out. You whisk chunks of butter into water that has just hit the boil and is then kept over low heat, creating a new emulsion, then adding more butter to reach the desired quantity. The buerre can be used as a poaching medium, as a medium for resting cooked meats, or a way to finish off a sauce. I think I first heard of it when reading about The French Laundry, because they use it all the time there.

* Mr. Tony’s appetizer is grilled oysters with razor clams and cucumbers. Rick Moonen says it needed a little more salt or brine, but he did like their texture.

* George’s entrée is butter-poached lobster with vadouvan spice, roasted sunchokes in brown butter, crispy sunchokes on the side, and micro-greens (which Tom says are totally superfluous …. it’s the modern watercress). Kerry loved the vadouvan coulis for the lobster.

* Melissa’s mom (Alice) is super serious about her dish – no one goofed off, but she definitely showed some grade-80 makeup here. Her starter is a chawanmushi (there’s a recipe for this in Ruhlman’s Egg) with shiitake mushrooms and clams, garnished with lobster and salmon roe, and with bonito flakes for smokiness. She tells the judges that she’ll never forget this day, cooking with her daughter.

* Melissa’s dish was butter-poached lobster with onion soubise, pea purée, fava beans, asparagus, fiddlehead ferns, and caramelized sunchokes. Ashley says it might be the best-cooked lobster she’s ever eaten. Tom says the vegetables are the stars of the dish.

* Kerry drops an “unctuous” when describing the custard. It’s not a compliment to man or food, but we seem to be getting it weekly on this show.

* Jessica’s dish was better than Gregory’s. That’s not a good sign for Mos Chef.

* Judges’ table: The standouts were Mei and Melissa, which isn’t surprising at all. Mei’s surf clams were “really special” according to Tom and the broth was one “we’ll all think about for a long time.” Melissa’s lobster was “perfectly done,” but it seems like the judges/diners were even more impressed by how good Alice’s chawanmushi came out.

* The winner is … Melissa. Alice is crying. Maybe you have to be a parent to get it, but there’s something about seeing a proud mom or dad getting emotional over their kid on TV that just … well, it’s a bit dusty in here. This was Melissa’s first elimination win, and while I still don’t think she’s the best chef on the show, she clearly nailed this challenge – maybe it played to her strengths, since she didn’t have to work with animal proteins.

* She says she hopes her dad will see this and finally be proud of her. I doubt it, though. He sounds like a real dickhead.

* LCK: Ugh. Doug and Adam must make a dish using Hidden Valley Ranch dressing using only the produce from a crudité platter (they can use other pantry items). How very ’70s. Doug wins despite overcooking a steak, as Adam’s crespelle didn’t use enough vegetables and his crepes were probably too thick. Also, ranch dressing is disgusting.

* Rankings: Well … Gregory, Mei, Doug, Melissa, George, but by definition Melissa is in the top three already, so I guess I’m really saying I think that any of the top three would beat her in the finale, even though they can’t all get there.

Comments

  1. Gregory definetly mentioned he was gay earlier in the season.

  2. Hey Klaw, Gregory had already spoken out on the show a couple of times about being gay, so George was on safe ground there.

    On Heffernan, I am not sure whether we’re seeing an outright misuse of “unctuous”, as you seem to feel, or a new usage applied to cooking. TC is not the only place I have heard it used in a complimentary way when applied to a dish that has a high fat content but is really done well/yummy/right texture, so I think this may be the food industry evolving the use of the term to fit their needs. You can’t call something “greasy” and have it be a compliment, but high-ending it by using an SAT word like “unctuous” may be what’s happening even that doesn’t fit the original meaning.

    Also I was really happy with the format – not having an elimination was an interesting approach and I liked the opportunity it gave the chefs even if they were a bit hamstrung (in some cases) by having their family members do the apps. One of my favorite episodes so far this season.

  3. I am glad Mei is not my sister, and glad my mom is a lot like Mel’s. That’s all I really have to say about this episode – it was pretty silly.

    Also, it’s a little weird that they went from Duxbury to Glouster. Couldn’t find a seaside kitchen on the South Shore, or a shellfish farm on the North?

  4. New to this site (love your ESPN baseball write-ups Keith) so maybe this is plowed ground already but does anyone else feel that George being on the verge of the finale or even winning the season total BS? He missed half the show! It’s one thing to work your way through LCK but George sat around doing nothing for over half the competition. It’s as if a marathon runner tripped and fell in the first quarter mile and was told by the judges “rest up for a couple hours and we’ll insert you in the front for the last few miles to see if you can win”. Surprised none of the other chefs have cried foul.

  5. In French “onctueux” has a secondary definition, meaning to have both a smooth consistency and a smooth and velvety flavor (the primary definition is the same as in English). I imagine the French kitchen culture has helped spread its use as a faux-ami.

    • @Mark: Interesting – I didn’t know that, but Larousse even gives sample uses that refer to food in a positive light. Your explanation makes sense to me.

  6. Please seek a personal relationship with our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, the Son of God. For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life. – John 3:16

  7. Melissa may have earned her way into the finale with her food, but I was bummed to see it. She seems like a cool, funny person but she’s shown nothing but cooking mediocrity the entire season until now. I agree that Gregory, Mei or Dougie will probably trounce her in the finale.

  8. Sadly, there are a lot of asshole parents, especially fathers, out there (mine included). I’m happy that you’re not in that number, Keith.

    I know that some have lamented that this season is bland and too positive, but, frankly, I’ve only haphazardly followed the show (after watching the first several seasons from start to finish) since the overwhelming negativity in the season featuring the Voltaggio’s (and others). Given that I’m not a foodie, I’d rather see good people succeed and therefore was quite pleased with Melissa’s win, particularly since she teamed with her mother to find success. A win by anyone besides George (seems like a used car salesman and missed half the season) would be quite satisfying, but I’d probably prefer to see Melissa, Gregory, or Doug emerge victorious.

  9. I agree with Patrick – George should not be in this contest. He was able to skip half of the challenges. He was eliminated TWICE on the first day. First by being last in the challenge and 2nd by losing to Gregory in his chance to get back in. They gave him a 3rd chance midway through, for some reason.
    I didn’t realize this was a non-elimination day. 2nd time this year that Gregory, the best cook, should have been eliminated.

  10. I’m of two minds about George. I agree with everything you guys are saying about him missing half the challenges and returning. On the other hand, it’s always a bit unfair to whoever’s bounced in episode one, just in the sense that we didn’t get to see much of that chef’s skills before s/he was sent packing. And he’s not a zero; he just didn’t run the same gauntlet as the other chefs, but that doesn’t make him less skilled. Plus these are kind of the weird rules of the game, just like the elimination quickfires and Last Chance Kitchen and all of the other gimmicks … you want to play, you agree to play by silly (and often irrational) rules.

    That doesn’t mean I like it, just that I can make a case for it.

  11. I don’t mind fluky eliminations – that’s what LCK can correct.
    I don’t mind if the best chef doesn’t win, just like the best team often (usually) doesn’t win the world series.
    it’s a contest, after all.

  12. Keith, your questions about why Melissa’s & Mei’s parents do not approve of their career choices (Melissa’s mom being the exception) is a matter of culture. If I recall correctly, both are from Chinese descent. I believe this is for most East Asian families, but I know that Chinese parents want their children to do better than themselves. My parents worked in restaurants most of their lives and perceive any work in the industry as lower class. They wanted me to be some sort of professional, be it a doctor, engineer, or something in an office. Though they probably never imagined there’s the possibly “rut” of being a cubicle drone. In any case, choosing to be an accountant made my parents happy. My father, though retired, still enjoys cooking. He just would not have approved of any of his kids working in the industry. As for Melissa’s mother, kudos to her for supporting her daughter’s career choice.

  13. I know Im late to the party (I finally caught up on the DVR), but I came to see if this point was made and Im surprised it wasn’t. I found something inherently unfair about Melissa’s win. Granted, her lobster looked as perfect as the diners said it was, but she seemed to beat out Mei based on the quality of her mother’s dish. If I recall correctly, Melissa makes a specific point in the confessional that she tasked her mother with the custard because she used to make it for Melissa all the time growing up. It seems to me that the goal of the challenge was to make the chefs both preparers and teachers simultaneously – a situation that tripped up Gregory for sure. Rewarding Melissa for having a sous who could go on autopilot seemed wrong. Shouldn’t Mei have gotten more credit for making a great dish while also coaxing something edible out of her brother, who Tom pegged as a disaster from the moment he encountered him?

    • An excellent point. I wasn’t comfortable with Melissa winning, period, but this encapsulates the argument better than I did.