Hollywood eats.

My first draft column of 2010 is up today, a breakdown of Saturday’s showcase at the MLB Urban Youth Academy in LA, featuring just about every top senior in SoCal this year. (One guy was missing, and I’m working on finding out why.) There’s also a clip of my ESPNEWS hit today, talking Victor Martinez (my most boring answer of the day, of course). And I’ll be on ESPN Radio’s Baseball Tonight in the 10 pm EST hour tonight.

To the eats:

First meal was at Umami Burger in Hollywood, which turned out to be within walking distance of my hotel, which made me feel rather stupid for driving there and rocking the GPS to go a whopping 0.4 miles or so. Anyway, it’s a good burger, made from the relatively unknown cut of cow called flap meat, which has a strong beefy flavor and responds well to quick searing (so I don’t think you want to go past medium on your burger here). Where they shine is in the toppings, a mix of grilled and roasted vegetables designed, in theory, to hit that “fifth taste” of umami; I know I spotted caramelized onions, some kind of roasted tomato, and a little cracker made from grated, griddled Parmiggiano cheese, served on a Portuguese (and therefore slightly sweet) roll. I strongly recommend the burger, but skip the fries and try the thick-battered onion rings, with a crunchy crust that shatters on impact.

Sticking with Hollywood, I went to Ike Sushi at Hollywood and Gower, buried in a corner strip mall, which turned out to be a great find. The fish was fresh – I’m not sure how a sushi place in LA would stay open if they didn’t use the freshest fish – and other than the salmon, just barely laced with a little ponzu and some finely minced scallion, it was all served straight-up, including some of the best yellowtail I’ve ever had (Ike also had yellowtail belly, or toro, a good find although it was a little tougher than what I get at Koi in Seal Beach) and very strong maguro. Six or seven orders of fish, including tip, was under $40. They’re apparently known for their rolls and combinations, if that’s more to your tastes, but when I’m in California I want the real deal.

Breakfast the next morning was at Square One Dining, a recommendation from dak of FireJoeMorgan fame. They specialize in local & organic ingredients, and the menu incorporates a lot of fresh vegetables in their omelettes and baked egg dishes. The basil and asparagus omelette with goat cheese and squash was fresh all over, but a little light on flavor – it needed salt, but also could have used some oomph from a spice or a bitter vegetable. The thyme-roasted potatoes were golden and crispy and tasted a little more fried than roasted, not that there’s anything wrong with that, and they had an excellent tea selection, with large bags of either whole leaves or something close to it.

I also went back to the Culver City location of Versailles, a small local chain of Cuban restaurants, which I hit last year as well. I mention it here to recommend it again (the lechon asado is excellent, and the service is fast – I was in and out inside of 20 minutes after sitting at the counter) and to torment Joe Sheehan, who recommended it to me in the first place.

Comments

  1. Versailles is definitely top notch.

  2. If you like Cuban, right down the street from angel stadium, Felix continental is good, cheap and big portions.

  3. That’s an impressive set of visits for an out of towner. I’d recommend all of those places. You should have had the bacon at Square One, and one of the baked egg dishes.

  4. Keith, I’m thinking of cooking chateubriand (sp?) this weekend. Any tips?

  5. If you find yourself in Culver City again, check out Tender Greens. The prices are reasonable, everything I’ve ever had there is amazing, and they must be doing well because they’re expanding into Hollywood. And if you’re in or near Pasadena, Dona Rosa’s burrito’s are exceptional and they have some really great baked goods.

  6. I’ve used your fajita rub recipe on flap steak many times and it works just as well, whether I made fajitas or just a good, spice rubbed steak. nice to see someone else appreciates flaps.

  7. Next time your in Culver City you got to go to Tito’s Tacos. Also, a legendary burger in LA is at the Apple Pan (along with can’t miss pie). I reviewed some top LA eats in this post: http://draction.blogspot.com/2008/04/know-deal.html

  8. OT: I felt like a dummy even googling “Molasses 1919” but sure enough, it was a real event. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boston_Molasses_Disaster

  9. I’m guessing that you have left town already but if not, I can recommend a few other places near your hotel.

    Los Balcones Del Peru offers fantastic peruvian on the corner of DeLongpre and Vine (just south of Sunset). To say its not fancy would be an understatement but the food is delicious. They have great ceviche, anticuchos, and wonderfully spiced seafood dishes.

    About a 1/4 to the East on Sunset, you’ll find Jitlada which makes the best Thai I’ve ever had. Order from the Southern Thai menu and a word to the wise, when they say something is spicy they mean it.

  10. I’m back in LA at least twice every year so I’ll save all these. I often meet friends in this area even if I’m not staying there.

  11. No Roscoe’s Chicken and Waffles?

    That place is surreal

  12. The Griddle Cafe in West Hollywood is another great breakfast place.

    The pancakes are enormous and they have many different flavors. Perhaps a little gimmicky, but they taste really good. Tough to finish just one. Also, the coffee is served fresh in a french press and the tea is loose leaf and also served in a press. Not just pancakes but your standard breakfast fare with omelettes and the like.

  13. Tito’s Tacos is perhaps the most overrated place in LA. Not anywhere close to authentic.

Trackbacks

  1. […] is the latest creation of Adam Fleischman, the man behind Umami Burger (which I reviewed in February 2010), folding a burger joint into a restaurant with a larger menu that also includes salads, starters, […]

  2. […] I also managed to get to 800 Degrees, the pizzeria opened by the folks behind Umami Burger and Umamicatessan, in west LA in mid-May. It’s not table-service; you order at the counter, […]

  3. […] second swing to Umami burger, first since February of 2010, was just as good as the last time out – their original burger is an umami-bomb, and now they […]