San Francisco eats.

My first meal in San Francisco was a dud, a sushi/Japanese place called Hana Zen. The fish was fresh, but totally tasteless, and the prices were on the high side. Skip it.

Breakfast on Saturday was at an upscale but very tiny restaurant called Canteen that does a simple weekend breakfast. I went with my standard plate. The scrambled eggs were really perfectly cooked, not runny but still soft, and the eggs were obviously very fresh. The hit for me was the home fries, made from red potatoes that were parboiled and then finished on a flat-top with just enough oil (or butter) to keep them from sticking. They’re not home fries, but they’re good. The chicken-apple sausage was either homemade or locally made, but it was not cooked enough for me. They do get extra points for nice presentation and for having green tea available as an option.

Saturday’s lunch was a visit to a sushi joint I hadn’t hit in six years, and wasn’t even sure I knew how to find. I stumbled across it while wandered around on Friday afternoon. It’s called Akiko, and it’s on Mason Street, not far from the Powell Street BART station and near Union Square. The place is tiny – four chairs at the sushi bar and maybe eight tables – but the fish is really fresh. The salmon was awesome, deep pink with a great texture, soft but not too soft. The unagi was great, although I’ve rarely run into bad unagi. Even the miso soup was good, tasting fresher than any I’ve had in ages. Just when I thought I was too stuffed to eat anything more, the last item I’d ordered, a spicy tuna hand roll, arrived. The thing was enormous, a good four inches or so long, with a generous serving of spicy tuna that had just enough sauce to flavor the tuna without ever making me think, “ugh, mayo.” And their prices are reasonable for sushi.

Memphis Minnie’s – The smoked andouille sausage was to die for, easily the best Q’d sausage I’ve ever had. It was like butter, but it was still thoroughly cooked, and even though it was a little spicy for my tastes, I ate every last bit of it. The pulled pork was good, smoky, just lacking a little bit of that sweetness that I’ve had in good pulled pork in the South, although it was easily remedied with any of the three sauces (North Carolina vinegar, South Carolina mustard, and Texas red) on the table. The texas beef brisket was good, but definitely a little dry, and it was the only meat left on my plate when I was done. The sides were a little disappointing; the cornbread (comes with every meal) was very sweet and had coarse-grind corn meal, which has a great taste but really needs to be cooked thoroughly (like polenta) before it’s added to cornbread batter. The baked beans were solid, with a heavy smoke flavor, but light on the brown sugar. I went for the French fries because they were hand-cut, but they weren’t any better than, say, In-n-Out’s hand-cut fries. Oh, forgot one thing – the sweet iced tea, named the best in SF in the most recent issue of Where magazine (or whatever that thing in my hotel room was), was like candy. Granted, I like my iced tea unsweetened, but this was practically iced tea syrup.

Dottie’s – This place was worth the visit for one thing alone: The scone. They make their own baked goods and the varieties change every day. I went for an apricot oat scone and was treated to a piping-hot wedge the size of a slice of a deep-dish pie. It was unbelievable – just slightly moist (like a scone should be), with huge chunks of avocado and the nice, complex sweet/nutty flavor of an oatmeal cookie. The meal itself was so-so; the scrambled eggs were cooked properly but were light on salt, the bacon rashers were thick and a little undercooked (I like ‘em crispy), and the potatoes were really light on salt. All of their egg plates come with two slices of homemade buttermilk dill bread, which was a very high-quality bread with a dense crumb, although I’m not big on dill.

My last meal in San Fran was a bit upscale, at a place near my hotel called Fino. I ordered a special, a grilled salmon with artichoke hearts and mushrooms, served in a white wine sauce with whipped potatoes. The salmon was fresh, clearly Pacific, cooked perfectly, and the sauce was light and thin so the fish’s flavor could come through. The “chocolate Fino” dessert, however, was a complete waste of time. It’s a chocolate pudding on a little raspberry sauce, and it’s bruléed before it’s served. Aside from the fact that I burned my finger on the glass bowl, the chocolate pudding was milk chocolate. Why bother? If I wanted a glass of milk, I would have ordered one.

Comments

  1. Memphis Minnie’s is incredible! I love that place. The last time I was in SF I was with my girlfriend visiting her Uncle. It turns out that her cousin is friends with the son of the man who owns the Minnie’s so when we went there he sat with us and we got a taste of basically every meat on the menu. The best, in my opinion, were the pulled pork sandwich, the ribs, and the pastrami. You heard that right, the day we went was pastrami day. Also, I loved the fries and they have delicious SF brew Anchor Steam on tap.

    Also, one thing you didn’t explain in your post is that this place is slightly different than most Q in the sense that the meat is not cooked in any sauce and comes without sauce when ordered. Thus, the pork lacked flavor until you added sauce because there is little to no sauce involved in the cooking process, this is by design. I actually liked this idea because that way before the sauce you get to taste the quality of the meat itself.

    Finally, the vibe of the place is great in my opinion. Great Q decorations all over and excellent music (while we were there they played live cuts from The Band, Van the Man, and Willie Nelson, among others). The best decoration, by far, was their Delta State Fighting Okra shirt.

  2. Jesse – I’m a big believer in the dry rub. You get flavor in Q from two sources, the smoke and the rub. True Q shouldn’t be cooked in sauce at all! So the meat at Minnie’s had a good smoke flavor (and a nice, well-defined smoke ring), but I didn’t get any flavor from the rub on the pork or on the beef (the rub on the beef was just charred, since it’s smoked for an awesome 18 hours).

    One thing that threw me was the order-first setup – you place your order, then you’re placed in a queue for the next open table. But it does work.

  3. Keith! I discovered the best sushi place since living in SF, Zushi Puzzle. Don’t go for decor or atmosphere but for the exotic fishes that the owner and chef, Roger, buys and feeds those good customers that sit at the bar and don’t look at the menu but just say, “Roger, what’s fresh today?” He sliced me some Italian toro and Spanish toro and they were as different as anything I’ve ever had but both melted in your mouth. And he watches you eat since he likes to see the customers expressions for instant feedback. Unreal…

  4. next time you come to san francisco, check out big nate’s barbeque. although they really don’t do barbeque any justice out here (then again, once you leave the south and the midwest, barbeque is just a verb), it’s at least quirky that you’ll have your food served to you by former nba great nate thurmond.

  5. I liked Akiko the last time I was in San Fran. Have you been to Gary Danko? It’s the single best meal I’ve ever had. Well worth the hype. The service is nothing short of sensational. It’s my first phone call after booking a flight to the Bay Area. And this is coming from a native New Yorker who has wasted plenty of paychecks on restaurants. Enjoy the blog.

  6. Never been to any of those three places, but all three sound good. I’m sure I’ll get out to SF again … although I have a feeling it won’t be for playoff preview work this year.

  7. Keith,

    Heading out to San Francisco for the first time in September. Doing 3 nights and trying to find a hotel. Is there a certain area you’d recommend to find a hotel in? I’m heading in on the way back from Maui, for my honeymoon. Trying to use Priceline but each star category has one hotel that I’d like to avoid – I’ve been checking out fisherman’s wharf based on another recommendation. Any info is helpful.

  8. Jeff – well, I stayed in the “Loin” (or Tenderloin) area, and it was sketchy. A few blocks away is Union Square, which is slightly less sketchy and is right near Chinatown. The Wharf is definitely nicer, big tourist area, you’ll probably end up taking a lot of cabs to get to restaurants, but you’ll be close to a lot of the tourist spots. That’s about all I know of the city – only been there three times, and before the Futures Game I hadn’t been in six years.

  9. I don’t know if people will hit this thread again, but if anyone’s looking for reasonable hotel recommendations, I’d go with three locations all fairly near Powell Street BART: Hotel Abri (Ellis Street) and the Grant Hotel and Hotel Triton (both on Grant near Bush, right at the gates of Chinatown). All are fairly safe, especially the latter two, and are among the more reasonably priced hotels in the city.